Craved

pretty sure the line near the power steering is the return line for the oil running through the hydrolic lifters on the exhaust side. as the head only has 2 feeds at 2.4mm in diameter. just curious of why you would want to know this? what was your oil pressure guage reading before taking the engine apart?

or try the metal cast paints.. there is a section in the DIY regarding painting brake calipers.. heat resistant and has a primer and colour application. thats what i'll be using for my cam gear and spark plug covers. just gotta get off my arse and do it lol http://www.duplicolor.com/products/metalcast.html

hmm thats what i used to get out of the std RB25.. will have to see. looks like there isn't much difference between the rb30 vs rb25 etc.. get a nice tune and that should improve i'd be thinking!

which is illegal.. leaving one in there saves that drama.

basically remove the rear canister .. and hook the pipe up like the pic below. thats how all i have seen are setup. regardless of the series. i have seen one skyline that had the front type replaced with the one thats at the back of the engine. see how you go.

yeah its just doubling up. all r33's ive seen just have the front most hose going straight down to the tank breather hose to the left. if you dont want in just use a bit of hose in an L shape to remove the 2nd canister from the exquation.

i bent the exhaust side if No 6 . had 0 comp... cant see it causing a reduction of comp like the other cyclinders

fair call! anyone noticed any increase i fuel consumption with the lower powered (220rwkw etc) RB30's V's RB20 or RB25's?

would you just use the RB25 to make that kind of power rather than go to all the hassles of building the rb30 and swapping the engine, blue slip with new engine etc? easy make 260-270 rwkw with std rb25.. personal choice for sure. then again, you might be in an r32 for all i know lol so then i would do it

i'd start with re fitting the old filter system.. if the boost returns to where it was it could be your new system is a restriction. if so setup a cold air feed from the guard instead of sitting your filter out in the open.

as the manifolds bolt to the head it should be fine. there is a note in the .pdf document that you need to modify the water galleries as they can foul on the manifold. you would need to test fit with your setup to see if this is required.

but if you look at the clearances between rim and caliper.. at 3 o'clock there would be less airflow hitting the caliper than at 9 o'clock. would be all about the direction of force from the caliper i would think.. if you spin a cd say, and grip it from 3 o'clock. your fingers are forced down, where as at 9 they are forced up.. this may not actauuly make a change but i would think the 9 oclock would put extra pressure onto the springs and shocks.. either way you would be able to tune around it i would believe, would love to hear an proper explanation though cos i've often thought about it

they both look like charcoal canisters.. no idea why you would need 2 though. i've never seen an R33 with 2 canisters. strange

doubt you'd need it though, but without the tune the car might not go well anyway due to the size difference in the injectors.. i dont know how to wire up the resister.. but not sure how hard they are to find. its a bit of work on the wiring though to get the packs to work on the injectors... from what i've read i think the std AFM will top out at about 200rwkw on the rb20, so the z32 AFM will be needed, but yeah cant get it on til you get there. BUT if you splice the plug into the std wiring you would just be able to unbolt the std one and replace with the Z32 when you get there

Just a quick question about the water pumps.. if you use the RB25 one, the bolt pattern is different.. is it just that one bolt hole thats slightly different? do you just not bolt that one hole? or is there something you can do to get it to fix? i remember seeing a pic of one with an elongated hole so it would fit both... just cant seem to find it. cheers

try a coolant fluch and clean the radiator.. while doing that look into the radiator.. if there is heaps of rust muck in there.. if there is you might need to get it replaced or professionally cleaned out.. (try a DIY flush first maybe) are you losing much water? also a mechanic can do a check on the radiator for exhaust gas to test the head gasket. process of elimination unfortunately.

1) wont need it with gtr injectors 2) Dr Drift remaps the std ECU. uses a modded chip inside the unit. 3) Dr drift is based in melbourne.. he comes to sydney every now and then though. dunno about QLD 4) mostly you can send him your ECU and he can guess a better map and send it back.. better if he can use a dyno and your car. 5) Z32 will work with the ECU 6) good idea, only thing is that you need the resister pack that comes with them to be able to run. 7) with the pack it will run rich til you get it tuned. 270cc to 440cc .. had a mate use him and didn't get the best results. idle issues and misfiring i believe. replaced with an F-con pro and all works sweet. personal choice. DR drift wil have to retune you everytime. vs power Fc that everyone can tune locally. up to you.

yeah dash out job, only takes a few hours when you havent done it before. i remember when mine went, its was a cold morning so i had to open the windows the let the steam poor out haha.. very hard to see when this is happening in peak hour traffic lol

that is a hot pipe that only has air going through it after the BOV goes off. so it doesn't matter too much if there is a leak. i was running a GFB hybrid that vented to atmosphere and back into the pipe and never had an issue. plug up the hole since it is not a standard fitment. never seen an r33 with a hose coming off that hose.

is it plumb back? if not then thats more than likely whats making it stall. but yeah the 4mm hose on the top of the BOV goes to a small metal pipe sticking out of the plenum .. just down and to the right of the throttle body when looking from the passenger side.

shouldn't have oil leaking anywhere near there.. do a compression test to see if its blow by.. if thats fine then it would be turbo seals

hahaha no its not

so your using GTR valve springs and not the lifters?

where abouts exactly is it leaking from? there should be no oil leaking externally of the turbo! the only oil you might see would be in the piping itself due to the return type system for the breathers on the cams covers ..

there are 2 relays that run the fuel pump the ECCS relay is in the kick panel, and there is alos a relay in the boot. in that white fuse panel.