Craved

only been making that power for a few months now, and i havent been driving it all that much to be honest. my current wastegate is faulty and has some eratic boost pressures running through the engine because of it. so its not something i have been pushing til i get the new one and know for sure that only 18psi is going to run through it... i do get the issue of stalling since im running a atmo bov, havent been arsed to work out a plumb back system with the aftermarket plenum... but thats an easy situation to resolve with some taps of the right foot. known a few cars that run up near 18psi on smaller turbos and only making 240-250rwkw so it really looks like the bigger turbos are able to give the engine the extra air they need without pushing the limits of boost and the CR.. that said i am sure the cometic metal gaskets dont change the CR at all, but are more likely to hold up with a little more puishment than the std ones.

im running 294rwkw on 18 psi on std bottom end.. seems perfectly fine and AFR's are good.. getting new WG and coils and trying to hit to 300rwkw mark with out any more boost. BU5TER's old engine i think was running over 330rwkw and had std bottom end for years! so it can take it..

Bunnings sell cheap alloy sheeting... just make up some templates using cardboard then cut it out... not soo much a box as a heat sheild.. thats for using a pod.

yes yes <_< go enzed :lol: ahahha good to hear its fixed up.. when you tuning it?

this is from nengun .. not really too much info on what they look like

oh .. right :lol: yeah makes sense now hahaha

if you have the banjo fitting out, why not just go get the new banjo bolt and do it right ???

heres a pic of the head work and the lifter in that head ... as the kit on the nengun site doesn't really show any details on what the lifters look like.

possible issue with making the strut brace higher is that i know my strut brace had rubbing marks on it from the std bonnet.. so i know i wouldn't be able to make the strut brace higher .. saying that i am hoping i wont have an issue with the plazmaman front facing plenum.

the bolt might be too long for the hole, and causing the gap.. if this is the case then a washer should fix it... try fitting the bolt and see if it stops cos it seems to hit the end of the thread or no

need to be copper washers so that they are squashed to create the seal... if there is a gap where you state, try another washer .. if it reduces the leak then you might need some sealant in there ... where did you get this new banjo from? did you test fit it before the turbo went in?

wont help if the leak is through the thread or through the banjo fitting. have you got copper washers on both sides of the banjo connection.. washer: banjo:washer:bolt ????

Stan ... your gonna be out of luck i reckon mate .. you dont wanna be risking your engine over a leak like this, never mind not being able to bleed the system properly .. tomorrow is friday, you should be able to get the new banjo fittings. but do they screw in easy? you dont have to force them?? how big is the leak? are you using the bolts that gop with the banjo fittings?

woah ..... that is ridiculous he is tightening the 2 struts together ... why? the point of the strut brace is to minimise the struts movement inwards and outwards this thing would only stop them flexing "outwards" but when the force of a corner pushes on the strut it would have no effect whatsoever.. do not bother with this IMHO

woah . strange post .. well the thing with the R32's is that it runs hyrdrolic hicas on the rear wheels.. perhaps he is suggesting remove the HICAS and use the hydrolic lines that the hicas uses to run a cooler for the power steering.. just my guess from that post ... dont know if that would rectify your issue

think the blitz adapter is about $1200 itself, plus the cost of the plenum ... this is usually the only option for NEO RB25's since there is no aftermarket plenums for them yet

have you tried a STD turbo to see if it tries to peak .. i noticed you said the turbo was fine... but after 6 months i would be willing to change the turbo over to test it out... if a std turbo works to std boost, then it would be the turbo thats faulty..

really need to know about the solid lifters .. if they are visually different to the hydrolic lifters .. any ideas nismoid?

yeah the WG was sticking open causing the different readings... have a new tial 38mm on its way .. and new coils to go in too. yeah the 275 kw reading had a much better range and alot less lag.. have to get another tune with the new WG to make sure everything is running ok , its hard when the boost levels keep changiog lol want to get as much out of it on street fuel .. depends on how available the 100 RON becomes.. but its mainly a weekender car, so i can mix up better fuel if i need it.

here the sheet http://img380.imageshack.us/img380/3472/pic000130hq.jpg

only mod i have inside the motor is a set of tomei poncams running 18psi . only issue i have at the moment is a faulty WG which decides when and how much boost its gonna use by itself.. here a graph .. this is without changing anything on the car. edit : hahaha dyno sheet too big .. will get link

is there a visible difference in the lifters when they are solid?? wanna check whats in there.. as the head i have had big cams in it!

thats pretty much what mine is for? mainly a streeter but definately going to be on the track.. already got the 50mm PWR cooler .. so that helps..

would the rb30e water pump have cavitation issues at the higher RPM ??

rev limiter does work on an over rev caused by early down shifts either , which can happen accidently during track work