Craved

so this is an RB30e or et? from what car? any details on it at all .. will more than likely take it off you .. why did you scrap the build? cheers

sorry but this doesn't even make sense to me "the car comes on full boost at 3000 or just over, and then as soon as it hits around 4-5000rpm, it just climbs all the way to 14psi, even with the boost contrtoller removed and having a boost line from the acutaltor the intercooler pipe, it still does the same, but as soon as it hits 6000rpm, a big rush of power comes, so fast that you dont have enough time to change gears before it redlines. " what does it do between 4K and 6K ? lose boost? spike? lose power not boost? got a dyno sheet with a boost or AFR map for this issue?

prob only about 15rwkw more than a std turbo on 12 psi .. as cruise liner said, why 12 psi .. std gasket and internals are fine with 16 -19 psi.. with about 17 psi you would get about 270-280 rwkw ... still gonna be relatively laggy, so i wouldn't do it and only run 12psi ... would be slower than a std car IMHO

pics of the bar damage? have repaired some pretty badly damaged bars before ..

HAHAHA ..

bearings down to copper suggest oil starvation then had the bearing seize, which forced the piston onto the side of the bore, jamming it there which forced the bolts out as the crank continued round..

the fuel pump fuse is located in the boot, under the white cover next to the battery should have english writing on it.

wonder what size the rear housing is, cos that boost curve looks very similar to mine with a 1.12 rear housing and a faulty WG.

bugger :lol: oh well, might just have to see how it goes..

might wanna sepcify what engine you have... and what type of catch can you have too. cos it will change if you have a plumb back type catch can, or a atmo venting one.

i know that franks panel and paint in seven hills does plastic welding.. also a bike shop in Penrith does it (next door to windscreens obrien) dunno where you are but hope that helps oh and modding the RB25 NEO is alot harder than the R33 engines.. interms of manifolds etc.. but internals are better

turbo feed hose went on mine.. pain in the ass to change too cos there is no room. best way to look is to fill it back up, and see where is leaks from.. with the engine off so you its easy to get in there and see. oil feed to turbo would help protect it and keep it coolish

Hey people, just after some confirmation on the differences between the '94 and '96 heads of the RB25DET. purchasing a new head, but need to know if cams, vct solenoid, manifolds from a 94 wil fit this 96 head all info would be appreciated. Chris

well i can get a full working one for $1200, so i can sell the block from that... trying to get one for as cheap as possible of course.

any blown RB25 from a S1 R33. prefereably bloown bottom ends as need the head in working order , Sydney area of not too far away as well.. thanks in advance Chris

would be interested in the engine, if you separate.. price please

should have everything sorted by the time this comes around... if not i'll come.. faulty WG and all

can be a combination of things. badly matched shock/spring combination worn bushes around the rear subframe uneven tyre pressures. try a new set of bushes or pineapples for the rear frame first.. increases squat on launching

could it be a faulty pump then? still under warranty? good stuff its fixed now

ahhhh k fair enough..

its getting enough current to the pump? could use your std pump as a primer/supply to the 044 if worst comes to worst

dave, is there any way the sock could be getting sucked into the pump and blocking it? i mounted mine external with a tank, so haven't looked at the sock/pump connection.

ok, so what is PP meant to mean? and wil does take some great shots.

anyone seen the price of electric fuel pressure guages??? they are like $900 from autometer... and only $160 for Mech style fuel pressure... so you definately pay for it. but the std ones like oil pres. and temp are still cheap for electric guages.

thanks to Wil for those shots