Craved

your right, he needs to confirm that it is black smoke or blue smoke. black = fuel. blue = oil. compression test required for sure.

whats actually got you stumped?

you could call a freight company and get a quote.. if its like $300 then i would get a trailer and drive the thing up here, plus it'll be quicker

haha yeah that IC has been through alot.. silly hard suspension has caused it troubles

check the ECU with another standard unit.. if you have access to one. my car wouldn't idle at all for a long time, everything seemed fine like yours. but when the power FC went in.. idled perfect. just another idea.

heat range of 6 or 7 adam on the plugs

that is a good photo Wilchamus!! cheers *saves Pic

dont know if they have all the fittings there.. pretty sure they have the adapter plate for them though. i got all the sandwich plates, remote filter unit, fittings and line from motorsport connections..

hey Dave ... motor sport connections have adapters for moving dash 8 to dash 10.. i bought one of the just jap ones for $99 , had to get the adapters since they dont run std dash fittings on them.. yet to install it though, gotta finish welding up the support brackets for it!

cheers mate

have you got a picture of them with the cam gear covers off? do they hgave ADJ cam gears with them or just using the standard ones? have you set the bottom end to top dead centre and checked the markings on the backing plate of the cam gear covers?

the pics of the red ones on your site are not working, you got any available?

yes yes i remember this car... looked nice man.. welcome to the forums!

are the canards just straight carbon sheeting or does it have a fold at the edge? looks good though!

nice new addition on the passenger light Paul and Stacey .. i like it

my car still has the rb25, so i'll be running it with the cams in it til the rb30/25 is done.. was thinking of selling them, thats why i asked the questions about the cams. if longer duration cams would be better then i would get them, just a pain that i just bought the poncams, and havent even run the car with them in.. see how it goes.

any ideas if the NEO lifters would fit in a non NEO rb25?

after all my efforts, one of the relays i bought for the pumps were faulty... left me stuck on the side of the road for ages.... /end rant time to go get a replacement.. and try again

i have spoken to my Mechanic abouts these.. and you VERY STRONGLY recommend the studs over bolts. the deal with the studs is that they allow you to put a more accurate amount of torque through them and the wont stretch as much so the clamping force on the head/block is greater. i'll be using them in the 3L build but if you dont want to spend the $200 then you should use some Moly grease on the head bolts so that they wil tighten up to the correct torque, the grease is for engine building and breaks down, but allows for less restriction on the thread which means the torque needed to turn them is less.... hence the torque is closer to correct when you bolt them up to the 99-103 Nm not sure on how they are applied into the block though, can find out easy enough.

i also beleive that the S1 and S2 use 2 different types of G/Box as well.. so the S2 might be the same as the R34.

could be a slight inlet manifold leak .. check all hoses for small cracks

there are 2 different gearboxes from the RB25 .. push and pull types.. so you will have to work out what type your clutch is, then what type your g/b is!

i have the tomei pon cams, so they are 256 degree duration.. bought them before deciding on going for the 3L.. have been thinking of running 264 degree's but still con entirely sure they would work ok on the hydrolic lifters.. i have no problem with getting the "machining" done to clear the lobes, wont have to do as much prep as Gary as the head will already be off the engine. would solid lifters be better with 264 deg cams? or if im not revving past 7500rpm the hydrolic ones be up to the challenge? is this the same with the valve springs? trying to keep the costs down as far as i can

i will prob go for a twill main layer then use plain weave for backing layers . going for looks and function with mine.. and twill is definately the best looking. will have to chat to the suppliers, i have seen black fibreglass before so i could run a layer of CF twill then run black fibreglass under neath.

i have blown 2 IC hoses since my new install went in .. pretty close to yours.. only thing is that my car wouldn't run AT ALL with the hose off. could be a split in a silicon hose enough the limit boost but allow air though.. only other thing would be turbo seizing.. or gate stuck open..(but you would notice the noise with a screamer pipe.. good luck.. hope it aint nothing major for you.