Craved

hahaha then it would be curved .. never mind it being fibreglass based .. wouldn't bother

shop i went to FIBREGLASS MATERIAL SERVICES PTY LTD 12 Abbott Road Seven Hills NSW 2147 PH: 02 9624 2511 FAX: 02 9674 2815 link to a bunch of shops http://www.nationwide.com.au/directory/gen...fibreglass.html

there is a shop in seven hills, that sells carbon fibre/carbon kevlar by the metre.. carbon is $75 a meter and is just under a metre wide... only thing you need to make flat sheet is a A) flat surface - steel or plastic is best B) releasing polish (not sure on correct name- but it makes the resin not stick to that surface) c) clear gelcoat (only if you want it smooth and shiney d)resin and matting you polish the flat surface with the non-stick polish.. paint on your gel coat then mix up the resin and apply using a roller to get the air bubbles from the matting.. dont make it set too quick cos that will weaken it. then it dry for a couple of days then your ready to go... i am also going to do my own sheeting for my centre console.. so if you dont go ahead with it Paul/Stace then let me know and i'll make a bit extra.

$394 brand new from Nengun -- delivered without plug though

what sort of power would guys think that an HKS 3040 with 1.12 AR rear housing would make on the RB30/25 with tomei poncams? would that turbo flow enough for 400rwkw or so? reason i ask is because i have finally found a block for a good enough price .. not super cheap but the best i found so far.. so im picking this up on the weekend and getting started on the build..

i've considered this myself .. my conclusion was that it may be affected due to the temp of the air passig through it at any given point .. IE . after the turbo the air would be hotter than ambient. after the intercooler . the air would be cooler..but closer to ambient temp i thought that this may affect it due to the AFM being a hot wire type.. if anyone would confirm that would be great..

could have missed a line to the std solenoid so the turbos are running at actuator sprung boost ... or have a split in one of the pipes that goes to the actuators/solenoid

yeah i have the manual. ... but i only remembered the ECCS relay exists after i left for work tonight .. it will have to wait til tomorrow arvo when i get up .... soooo annoying to have an idea on whats causing it and be able to go check now LOL

i've got no trigger power coming to the fuel pump relay in the boot... so when i turn the key there is no change to any point on the relay ... its either a problem with the ECCS (dunno what it does) relay .. or i'll have to bypass the whole system and have the pumps on constant power. what a hassle lol.. at least i've already bought everything to do it with.

got a pic of the engine bay .. would be able to tell quickly if you have it! abs unit is in the back right corner of the engine bay .. little unit with 4 lines in and out.

the horizontal pass radiators are better at cooling due to them forcing the water through to get cooled twice.. goes in the top runs right accross the radiator then falls down then runs back accross the radiator to the water pump pickup... sad attempt of a diagram of the twin pass radiators attached ..

ben then +ve and -ve on the separate plug. -- yeah im using my std pump as a lift pump to the surge tank too .. will see what i can organise with pics etc .. might as well make a tutorial out of it for the DIY section.

just had a thought .... isn't the std fuel pump fuse only 15amp .. cubes .. your running a 30amp fuse on the pump now ... you know if that would cause any issues to the pump?

ok.. so you are still running the std wiring to the std pump .. but feeding the power from the battery feed.. kk i was gonna run 8GA wire direct to the plug.. bypassing the standard wiring all together ..

well im hoping to find a way to completely remove the std socket for the pump ... Cubes - how did you attach the 8GA to the std fuel pump plugs? the 3 other wires is for your fuel level sensor .. 200rwkw the std pump will work fine left std.. unless your duty cycle gets way up there.

hey ben .. the positive wire is the Blue wire on the 2 pin plug .. which is located as the closest wire to yourself when looking in the boot.

im running a fuse setup from my old stereo system. it has a 0 guage input that splits into 4 fused 4/8 guage outlets.. can also run 2 x 4 guage outputs that are un fused. really neat little setup actually.. run ) guage to that .. run 4 guage un fused to the fuse/relay box in the boot. then fused lines to the fuel pumps and amp. makes it alot easier to wire it neatly.

hmm was waiting for someone to say that .. im running a couple of switches in there as well... reason i was gonna run it direct was the relay's gone from the std power feed. so i didn't wanna have to replace that too. will have a think about it... you know were i can get replacement relay for the std setup??

checked out my fuel pump today with a direct power feed from the battery . and she worked fine .. so looks like the standard relay for the fuel pump packed it in .. already went and bought the new wiring for the setup so i'll install that tomorrow. which wire did people use for the trigger wire? was thinking it would be best to run from an IGN wire but not sure where to tap it in .(havent really looked yet) noticed in my mates rx7 that they had spade fuses that had a wire coming out the top of them. anyone know where i can get these. really handy in this instance since i could just replace the IGN fuse and tap the trigger into the wire that comes out of it.

despite the rubber on the dipstick not selaing.. it still shouldn't be popping out.. if i were you i would get someone to do a comp test on it.. just for your own peace of mind.

if it it smaller... go to a good shop that has silicon hose... you know the fancy blue stuff ... cos that stuff is new and and will definatley stretch over the bigger T piece better than the black rubber hose. usuall like $16 a metre .. but you wont need much

what type of hose was supplied with the apexi guage? is it the hard clear plastic? like an autometer one? if it is the std size hose will fit over the end of it .. then cable tie it,, then plug it into the t peice... they should all use the same size hose.

yeah i cant see why they would take the power from there .. but they did .. and the issue was sorted .. just a loose connection from the ign switch in the fuse box to the remotes for all three units

hehehehe fair enough... we put a fuel surge tank ext. pump setup in the wheel well of a mates spritner... with a cover ofver the top he has more boot space .. who needs a spare wheel anyway ??? or get the box type.. like the Greddy ones from advan. take up less room than the cylinder ones that are comon..

i have mine bringing the return line into the surge tank .. so mine shouldn't run dry unless the feed pump dies for a couple of minutes. have to try and find out which relay runs the internal pump in the R33's. i didn't have the cover for the relay/fuse box in the boot. so i couldn't check. you could run a surge tank rather than having the internal pump feed direct to the external pump ... think thats how you have it setup