Craved

just had an issue with my fuel pumps on the weekend ... just lucky i founf this thread. is there any issues with totally removing the fuel pump from the ECU? was thinking of running a similar setup to whats been doing here, but the problem comes that i dont have any power coming to the fuel pump from the std wiring.. if i was to run a remote/trigger wire from the ign wires under the dash, would that cause any issues? im running a 040 with the surge tank being fed by the std R33 gtst pump .. neither pumps are running now since the trigger wire for the ext. pumps relay was coming from the std wiring.

did it rev but with no power? thats usually a sign of a fuel supply problem ... its exactly what happened to me on saturday ... but mine didn't start again ... still havent figured out why my pump isn't working

you have pm Jash

i have been told by alot of people to have it brazed into the sump itself ... have seen a few cars run it this way. oil pressure would be done through an adapter on the std oil pressure sender.

thanks for the hints there guys .... but this is funny ... it was actually all drawing power from the ECU - crazy japs but it was only a coincidence that when he jump started it a connector that was running the 3 units disconnected behind the head deck .. oh well its sorted now .. hey Coupe .. the car is red. and race import only so its fine to be doing a back yard ish job as it is still to be stripped out etc. this is it .. small pic though

can you get the canards that are on the first pic?

my mate just got his S6 rx7 in the country... he had to jump start it as the battery was crap.. now there are 2 Greddy electrical (water and oil pressure) guages that dont work anymore.. also a pivot temperature controler (for fans) not working either. anyone know if they have an internal fuse or are they usually fused somehwere else? sooo many wires running all through the car (dunno why they alwasy do it that way) but just checking for any hints on it. mainly the pivot unit as it cotrols the thermo fan so it cant be driven until thats fixed

ahhh k .. i missed the link in the first post .. lol i like the new one though

you would need an etch primer one would think .. give it a sand down with 400 wet/dry and a light coat of etch primer .. then spray it

if this is them ... then they look pretty good!! http://t-style.japancar.ru/i/wallpapers/bal_aristo_1024.jpg

make sure you give it the recommended time to "cure" before you run it

except for the series of RB30 block they can have..

can i get a quote for the side skirts and rear bar?

still waiting to hear back from some guys that put a RB25 into a VL .... see if i can get it cheap enough.. but $30 is a mad bargain.. i rang about 8 wreckers around my area and only 1 place had an RB30 in stock

im tempted to buy a $600 R31 and strip it for parts

what kind of prices have the blocks been going for? have been offered one for $300 .. and a complete VL motor for $475 .. is this about normal?

did you get any shots of the turbinee wheel (ie exhaust side) that would be steel not ceramic if it had been done. but it could be rebuilt with a steel wheel without highflowing the turbo.

i heard a rumor that the R31 R30's all have the series 2 blocks... can anyone confirm?

Sunday : Fine, partly cloudy. E/NE. Sydney: 16 24 Liverpool: 14 25 Penrith: 14 26 Richmond: 13 26 that help?

*crosses fingers my car will be ready for this

Mac pass?

never heard of the manifold causing a car to ping.. but i have seen the std log style manifold running over 250 rwkw. so that wouldn't be causing it.. seems that Hitmans tune was a bit better than the recent one too. since the power curve is alot smoother. and still alot of fuel up top to keep it safe

could be : O2 sensor, blocked injector. what makes you think its not the coil packs or plugs? mine idle like that ... i had a bent valve .. get a comp test done.

yeah it is .. near the airport/sky diving place.