Craved

well if they are anything like the rb25 turbo ... there should be 2 studs out of the turbo adn 3 bolts that go into the housing ... there should only be the 2 nuts and they are on the back side of the exhaust dump.

cool.. yeah that kit looks mad... could you PM a general price for it... in the process of looking for another car atm .... so i could do that then sell her off after a little fun in it

WERD ... shame shame shame

hey Shan .. you able to get more BN kits? and also is that a half cage in your line?

thats still a popular mod in Japan... just get the black top 20v as it has more power std than the silver top.

do you have an oil catch can that vents to atmosphere?

they always do..... um up to about $12K on the line in the last 6 months ooh well should go hard. thats pretty damn cheap for paint.. but its only acryllic .. why not go for 2 pak paint? but then again your already on the costs. our AE is almost ready for painting.. been undercoated and is still halfway through the rub back... still reckon at least a month til its done....

have you got the engine already? - check the difference in the way the engine mounts bolt on the block , if they look the same you should be able to retain the 32 mounts and bolt them to the RB25 block. have you got a front mount IC or using std? - after market one should be pretty close in the piping design so you should have to change much here. exhaust would more than likely need a change, but the std dump will fit on the 32 exhaust, you will only know once you fit the engine in.. but this change would be very little in terms of cost for modification.

that looks Hawt ... could you tell us what you paid for the kit? or is it an original kit thats through to roof?

happy birthday man ... day late but i was sleeping ... at least you only got 35 mins left of work ....enjoy

has it got any hoses coming from it? could be a boost controller... post a pic, someone will be able to let you know what it is

you might wanna state which state your in since im sure the rules will differ.

what boost controller is it? does it leak at idle too? should be sucking are through that hole too at idle.

just use something to block the hole where the BOV plumbs back in .. that way you can always put the stock one back in if you get defected. people i know have used the rubber stoppers from chairs legs before. dont use tape.. wont last long

just watch for those gremlins.... i had my car off the road for 3 months .. and she was having issues with stalling.. took the car off the road for 4 months and then it wouldn't idle ever again... just about to get it back on the road again after 9 months .. hope it doesn't get any worse....... normally it shouldn't be a n issue.. mine just freaked out on me LOL

My thoughts are following the same line as a water temp guage... you monitor it on the way out of the motor, not on the way in. cos then you dont really know what temp it is after its passed through to motor.

i'll have to see if these will work with my remote filter kit.. cheers for the idea.

yeah the guages are both autometer. yeah will look into getting an adapter to put in the lines for the oil cooler. dont like the idea of having to modify the sump. autometer sell the double adpaters i think. just dont think they will bolt into the block. have to pull the existing guage send out and have a look at it and match the thread. any chance you could tell me where on the block the std guage sender is, its not mentioned in the engine workshop manual. cheers

BOV will not cause the car to nearly stall while moving off after lights, only when about to come to a stop..

well the cam gears only just went on, so when the standard cam gears were on there was not adjustment bolts for it to hit i would imagine... hopefully he's got it sorted now anyways.

well isn't 400rwhp still under 300 RWKW?? 550cc injectors will do that fine without having an adjustable FPR. 740cc would just make idle quality really bad. edit -- is that your widebody gtst??? looks good i lke the gurads etc.

G'day all , Just wondering if people can suggest places to tap in the adapters for oil pressure and oil temp guages while retaining the std oil pressure solienoid. also heard that the block has a strange tapered thread or something, is this true? and if so, where can i get an adapter for it. running both guages from the same location, will need to get 2 adapters to get the 2 sensors into it. also please note that oil cooler will be installed and would like the temp to be more towards exit temp instead of entry temp so i know how hot the oil is on its way to the cooler. cheers

so the RB30 ones flow more than an RB25 one as well? are they worth the upgrade for a street car that goes to the track and will see traffic work...?

you have a shop front somewhere? so we can see the kits?

still got the boot?