Craved

the leaking water could be from your over flow.. this could be a combo of a blocked radiator and/or blown gasket... lets just hope its the radiator! as jolinator said .. take it to a mech ... they will be able to test emissions from your radiator to check for blown gasket, and do the rest he said

when you get the pump out .. try hooking it directly to power tomake sure

see if you are getting power to the relay .. if none is coming through then i can rule it out entirely..

heres a few : added the lights like i mentioned in my other post : skyline panel add a LED set like the R34's in the boot use an LED cluster in the rear window like most modern cars are you going to get a different wing -- put one in there if you are lots of other options depending on what you are about to do this car!

the heater is probably blocked but not to a point where no water goes through. hence while it sits there it is able to heat up the core, but once the cold air is pumped through it it cools it down and the amount of water flowing through it is not enough to maintain temperature!

just curious as i may have to remove mine (speedo rarely works on the street -- unless im turning right and going sideways ??? ) did you have to remove the box to get to it or not??

Tonkotsu ... is the diff in good gondition or will it require some attendance after the purchase? reason for selling?

you might wanna give us a better description or a picture or something! help us help you

umm B1 just told you guys how to do it! just remove the 4-6 clips off the clear outer section... then with a heat gun SLOWLY heat up the sealant holding the 2 pieces together.... then gently pry them apart, making sure you are extra careful at the parker light end as it has a tab holding it to the rear section of the lights.. then once you have removed it you will need to clean off all the old sealant with thinners and a rag ( long job) re-apply sikaflex to join and put back together! any more specific questions... let us know

I heard 5 years til she closes, read this in a Motorbike Mag that they are developing the track site and a dairy farm to open new residential area... Aparrantly the 2 owners stated that they would continue to back australian racing and that they will/might open another track elsewhere! hope that goes ahead!

the grey clip sounds like your fuel guage sender unit.. with the grey w/red strip being the response wire which will vary with fuel lvl! the brown clip sounds like your fuel pump wire... since the R33's use the ECU to vary the current on idle means that your pump is not gettion power from the ECU .. check that PIN 18 is properl;y connected by removeing the kick panel and unplugging then reinserting the plug .... the fuel relay in the rear fuse panel may also be blown .. check those too and have them tested properly.. im no where near my line so i can check which one it is for you.. shouldn't be hard to diagnose this, and i doubt that it would be the pump causing this situation! Hope this helps CT

Mine has done this sincew i removed the sensor behind the wheel to prep the dash... seems pretty certain that this will be the cause!

was your radiator getting blocked up? this could have also happened to the heater core, low flow through that core would explain the heat at first then cooling off as there is no hot water passing through it to heat the air up again! as for overheating... usually a water pump would leak through the front when the bearings go.... it may not be the cause.. have you run a flush through the system to clean it out?

the S15 turbo is slightly bigger than the s13 type and is has a steel wheel from memory.. good upgrade to mildly worked ca or sr motor.. nothing huge but the reliability at a lifted boost pressure is where the power will come from more than higher efficiency!

This one depends on how picky the copper is. Most cars are required these days to have a 3rd brake light.. i just over came this by installing a brake light into the skyline panel between the lights ... looks cool and has a purpose

I'll take it now!!!! i'll pm you jimbo

LOl yeah a heaps short video of a white sprinter ... with crazy japs guys screaming and stuff lol

Upgarage.. where are you located? looks like sydney in the photos! i have seen a sprinta similar to that colour at my mechanics... but i think that was gonna use a 20v or std 4age with side draft webbers etc.. that was gonna use 6pot brakes and stuff too! have you sprayed the outside of it yet? are you using for street or just drag/track?

as i said they have some ... obviously not ca18det ones.. as for tasmania .. get a boat to melbourne and get someone who knows what they are doing to tune it!

Cheers! is it STEWART WILKINS RALLYING PTY LTD in mulgrave?

Spotted ALHAIL - white R33- in mcgraths hill and a Blue series 2 r33 giving it a bootful out of the servo opposite dural driving range on newline road! (is that an N/A???) .

i think he means the ECU diagnostics.. try this thread!!! http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=35733

Apexi Power FC's are easy to install and come with a basic tune.. but for best performance you would need to get them tuned! you can get em online or from a performance shop.. autobahn have some but ridiculously overpriced.. checkout greenline or Nengun!

hey Oz .. where is this place near windsor ?

Thats true.. when he offers a group buy of more than 20, it would have been good to make sure he can get 20 first oh well we see how long we have to wait!