Craved

could be outside air temp - if its a 32 gtst

easy yes (i used BA falcon generic rubber) - but obriens etc dont cover your screen - so if they break it, you gotta pay for a new one

just make sure you prep them well wash them, clean with thinners - then sand them with some 400 grit or medium scotch brite pads - then prime (non etch) and paint

which glass? anyway - front/rear screen : cant do anything without pulling the windows rear 1/4 windows : cant do anything without pulling the windows outside of door window seal: one screw at the back of the door, easier to remove with the mirrors off from memory inside window rubbers : remove the garnish between door jam and rear 1/4, then just pop the little plugs out and remove inside door: pop the plugs at each end then stretch the rubber over the pointy studs that are stuck into the door

might look alot bigger on a car with standard rear quarters - cant help sourcing it sorry

have you tried anything to fix it yet? save people suggesting things you have already tried

for fuel efficiency at cruise, not used when giving it any

how are your rubber bonnet stoppers? found on the radiator support out near the guards - mine are shagged and no longer put pressure on the bonnet to make it pop

i'd start with checking the AFM is plugged in also the turbo wont make much boost -if any - in neutral post up a pic of the engine bay

02 sensor is only used on cruise for closed loop AFAIK

could try regapping them to 0.8mm but if the engine is revving higher, but no acceleration - sounds like fuel issue

sounds like a fuel pressure issue - what you describe is the same as when you get fuel surge or run out of fuel

16 x 7 and 16 x 8 they are EMU-SPO on the rays sticker inside the rim.. maybe contact rays japan direct?

get a picture of the weeping, showing its location.

i had to go to a specialist guage mob - like those that adjust speedos etc if the needles are replaced in the wrong spot they will not auto correct themselves - especially on a 32 which uses the mechanical speedo

yeah teh same, but no concave on my set

i have my old set sitting at the shop, i'll check if there is stickers on them with the model as the EMU seems to come in this 5 spoke and a mesh style

where and how much Ben ?

if your pads are not wearing evenly both on the same caliper and left to right it suggests sticking pistons on the less worn side uneven wear on the pad front to rear also suggests uneven distribution of force onto the pad @ around $180 for the parts to do front and rear it might pay itself off to do, if uneven pad wear is evident

furthest you could go is the remove the writing only, there isnt much material between the outside and the inside of the bores

rear bar should be easy - 3 nuts either side of the car in the rear quarter space - just have to unbolt the number plate holder as that bolts to the stock bar - then some plugs under the "skyline" garnish so that needs to come out too (4 bolts near the boot latch) just hope the stock rear bar came with the studed strips that go through the body rear pods stick on with tape and the 2 or 3 screws into the guard

thread in the fabrication section for polishing alloys http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Al...mp;hl=polishing

just some in sun shots to show the true colours of the covers

no worries- will do tomorrow when im back at the shop

ahh you did get it - your manifold arrived on monday - bit of delay in the old mail system up to you that reminds me - if you want i can post up some pics of the covers before i sent them up to you