Craved

will have to put gromets into the holes if this is done, wont pass if there are visible holes in the boot! if you have to get it done soon.. try the above.. but you'll wanna have it working eventually! could be something simple like the plug under the boot lining not being in all they way!

My BAD well thanks blind_elk seems that the fuel lines were around the wrong way!!! LOL we had fuel up to the rail.... but none going through it only confirmed that now, that the guy who helped me is here now and the marks he put on the fuel lines had been wiped off when we cleaned everything up... so i put em on the wrong way.... i even checked some photos i had and i couldn't see the lines properly!! OH WELL,,, at least now it does run and it was a cheap/no cost thing causing it!! and we know that the voltages at the injectors when turning over are supposed to be 6.5V not too bad an experience.. learnt heaps about the car and saved petrol while at absurd prices LOL thanks for your help man and once again its the simple things in life that shit you up the wall wont be doing that again

im pretty sure there are a few threads about the setup of these rear lights... they run in a set of leds in series connected in parrallel... do a search and you should find something in the maintenance section!!!

drain the fuel tank, new fuel filter! flush coolant... clean those air filters! charge the battery... just a few!

hey people, think i may have just found the issue causing there to be no fuel... and it doesn't seem to be anything to do with the injectors at this stage... we looked further into the issue of no fuel, SO we removed the fuel pressure regulator the one controled by vacuum and let the car prime and also tested while cranking the engine over.... no fuel came from that regulator.. so it looks like the vacuum switch is stuck closed and not allowing any fuel through... SO..... i was wondering if that switch should be letting fuel through regardless of vacuum input?? where can i get a replacement one from? is this actually required if you run and adjustable fuel pressure regulator? any other sugestions welcome!! oh and on a side note, we disconnected the CAS, AFM, and injector harness then ran the ecu diagnostics ... still came up as 55 ...?????? wierd?

wont happen overnight, but it might happen!!!

Ran the ECU check, and it came up 55..... so that doesn't help me much.. still rather it have an issue that way i could fix it instead of have it there not knowing .. will be getting a power fc next week, but if the ecu isn't the problem then i still have to fix it!! anyone know where the ECU earths out?

basically if i can sell this i'll buy a new rail made for the r33, if it doesn't sell then i can modify it!! so many jobs on my plate at the moment that it just seems easier to buy one!

actually there was no clicking of the injectors come to think of it! the car hasn't been run for ages now so im recharging the battery now.. will have to check the ecu diagnostics in the morning... the injectors and plugs were not removed with the headgasket replacement but have unplugged and plugged them back in... will also test out the readings at the ECU... this would only show the earth side of the injectors right? if the readings at the ecu match those at the injectors would that show an ecu problem? or does it just confirm that the loom is working ok and the issue is elsewhere?

LOL, but does it GLOW??? :headbang:

myr332, the ones that light up are from series 1 gtst's cause they are clear, just have to install led's behind it.. i put a neon back there but it's not big enough.. will be hooking up led's soon! you also have to paint the panel around the letters if you only want the letters lighting up, or leave it if you want all of it (skyline has silver chrome paint on it standard)..

6 nuts to be undone from inside the boot ... 3 either side below the lights towards the outside of the car.. 12mm if i remember right... then you have to remove the "skyline" from between the lights (4 nuts from behind plastic panel near latch) then there will be 2-3 clips on a shelf the bar sits on......... then slide it out!! oh and check out the number plate mount.. will have to remove plate and possibly the mount too... i removed mine but not sure if essential!! hope this helps

what car have you got? can help you if its an r33 gtst!

LOL at your sig!!! then: first - it's a big fine to run no CAT second - the second option would definately be a better option if your dump is indeed smaller than the exhaust.. there was a big thread about exhaust design stating what angle the transistion should be for optimum performance! so your options are to get a new dump of same size, or create that design that you have drawn.. good idea for the track have thought of doing myself... basic rundown of the article is that transistionbe be between 7 and 12 degree's to create a suction within the exhaust without creating too much back pressure! hope this helps!

thats cool, there are cheaper ones like it though!! good luck with the search!! try UAS they have em!!

i take no responsibilty for any troublemaking!!!! slim - i think we have to find somewhere for them to post whore other than SAU.. check out the barbie forums and send em the link!!!! :jk: well it's not actually but smilies make everything OK

edited mine is HPC coated with the split dump, bought it for about $795 wouldn't mind around $500 neg.. for it, not too old but wont need it with new turbo! just double checked prices and updated!

why dont you invest in a split system dump from turbo to cat .. lots of reviews on these... will be selling mine in about 2 months if your still looking then!

ive got the ts-w303f 12inch subs, just about to put them in, would they run better free to air than boxed? gonna be heaps easier to get a good design if free to air, also just put sound deadener (spray on - not the best by the looks of things) in the entire boot area, any ideas on spray on sound deadener that will work really well.... its alot of area to use the mats!!

slim, i asked about this when i got robs unit, they hadn't really heard anything about it! should write to sony australia, or ring a sony distributor! i just wanna see the cool adds come out here!! LOL

advance, i just checked this for ya! the cable plugs into the unit on the forward (hard to get to side) of the motor ie closet to the wheel strut..... it's about 2-3 inches down from where the signal cable comes out of the arial stem!! will only plug in one way.. flat side closest to the where the arial stem is hope this help, lemme know if you need a pic as i dont use my arial so its easy to access!!!

sewid, id do the master cylinder brace up tight so there is no movement and little chance of any flex, or it coming loose..

nice work, have similar issues with my car atm, where did you get the AFM voltages from? direct from the plug? nice work with removing the afm will definately try that in the morning

dude, UAS has these adapters for sale with rotors but im pretty sure the 5000 series are too thick for the gtst calipers, and wrong offset too.. checkout brake upgrades -skyline

Nah that was Jason that came down! he doesn't really read the forums.. gonna have to hook up a SAU/teletech drinks/cruise night sometime soon!