Craved

*edit*, ive done some more research and all i found was that the head bolts are bigger on rb26, and the ignition pack would be wired different.. plus the little bits like piping and throttle cables, exhaust manifold -new one required anyway.. anything major or just little stuff like this?

didn't you see me go past, must have been too quick for you! spotted a factory purple R33 GTR on windsor road this morning, didn't get the plates.

the dump pipe pictured in knore's post doesn't really match the description within the qouted thread meshmesh posted - i took this as the optimum would be the straight conical difuser was exactly that straight, not bent down in the fashion of the posted pic. obviously with a standard turbo/manifold design this would not be possible, hence the bend, but for other people with room is it better to have the conical section completely straight?

hahahaha true that --> you go girl !!!! i wanna see it this morning!

hmmmm that doesn't sound too fair bet i could make it home before you make it to the city!! Flying through the hawkesbury's mountain passes LOL

saw a awesome grey SII R33 this morning too, think they wanted to race going opposite directions though LOL

a mate with a CA18 had a similar issue - turned out to be the key on the end of the CAS had chewed out, try marking where the cas is now, then removed it and check the key - if not damaged check the "lock" on the cam to see.. thats how we found it on the CA -- not sure exactly how the skyline CAS attaches to the cam though! exactly the same symptoms though

i dont think they do, i put a post up a while ago and came back with nothing -- maybe we could adapt the kit used on the r34 but not sure!

i know i'm bringing up an old thread, but i was wondering about what you need to change to fit the rb26 head onto the rb25 block.. i was under the influence that the rb25 and rb26 shared the same block design.... is this correct - what exactly would need to be changed to do this swap? as runnning the rb31 in a street car causes some power to weight ratio issues i believe when it comes time to register your car! can anyone clarify? Is the standard rb26 headflow alot better (give more power) than a standard rb25 head? as i might need to install the front facing plenum to go with a new turbo setup, just thinking... will it be better for power to use a standard rb26 head without aftermarket cams, or to get the front facing plenum and after market cams for the rb25 head?

thanks people, will be adding that to my "to save for pile"

how did you go with prices on these kits wreckedhead?

LOL - i moved the guages off the pillar not the pillar itself I would love it if i could get that TPS off you for a bit, just getting really annoying at lights etc having to constantly rev the car past 2.5K just to keep it going! i'll PM you!

Guages were on the a-pillar, now are all part of the dash itself, i had to cut a fair bit but hey it's all good fun. Looks good, now just gotta get the dash sprayed to match the outside of the car. yeah i always make the most of any issue with the car, i gotta find a tps to swap mine with to test.. might have to take it to a workshop

prices here i got the fibreglass one, got done on the way to golbourne, when the summernats were on and i got about 10 defects but that wasn't one of them!

i got the fibreglass CAI from UAS (www.nismo.com.au) and never had an issue with my POD since, they cant see what is behind it, and if you dont have an hex key with you you cant show em whats there!!

or take the globe out of the light!

yeah i'm finishing early this month, leave at 7:30am! Will keep that eye out! I had an overheating problem, turned out i had to replace the thermostat on the weekend, plus i have heaps of stress cracks in the end tanks of the radiator so time to save up for a custom alloy one! but still got a similar idle issue, i've got down to possible TPS or O2 sensor issues. been playing around with it for weeks now! nearly got my dash finished now too - been making adjustments to make my guages legal - same defect issues as you've been getting!

did i hear cruise????? i'll be up for that moanie! Just finished putting my car back together too. question for you too, do you know what was causing your idle problem earlier?

Duncans right, they all should be off! i know when i hooked up my head unit originally i had it setup like this too, but drained heaps of power. they may have rewired the clock to stay on too, pretty easy to fix up but can be fiddly to do!! check the drain on the bat when stereo on normal then check the amps reading after you unplug the HU, if a big change rewire it to save that power-if it's not much then i wouldn't worry too much!

Thanks Steve!

there is a translated version of the fuse panel on the forums here somewhere! had a copy cant find it, try searching for it!

just saw an article today in the new ZOOM, it's a product from nulon to free lifters, check it out, dont know if it works! Just says if noise isn't gone after 500km then it's a trip to the mechanic's or it fixes it!! called lifter free and tune-up.... hope this helps diagnose! Chris

i had a similar theory about my car - doing the same kind of things with boiling and slight over heating -- turns out it's just a bust thermostat thats sticking, will work out cheaper if it is the same for you guys! still to find a new thermostat for my car though

dAVE, your thermostat will be at the block end of the bottom hose, so unless it's running down the hose, it will be something else!

that rsm looks good, have you had that in your car? comes with all wiring? just hard to see from those photo's is all! if you have a better one please email to [email protected] Chris