Craved

if roy had excessive toe out, wouldn't that help with the turn in and over ride the excess camber and lack of benefit on the track?

i got mine from UAS, they ahd it imported from JPN

now i know why its such a hassle, was hoping that didn't need to come out might do it on the weekend if i get time thanks for the info predator, big help.

sydneykid so these replacement racks like from unique/jms are similar to what you do, or is there more involved in what you do to remove this!

any tips for us going through the same thing! basically im just up to removing the heater unit/ havent tried it yet, wouldn't mind some tips i got a new core sent from japan, cost $365! looks a bit high from what i read doski got one for $250. try natrad as he did!

how much do you want for the brake lights? the blinckers aren't cracked are they?

might jump in for this one! havent been out for a while

when you wire that up, tell me if the readings match exactly! is it autometer tacho?

that removes the hydrolics alltogether, but dont know if it affects the ecu at all!

that makes perfect sense! although i was under the imnpression that it was directly related to the steering wheel! so that when the wheel is straight it wouldn't have any impact etc. have noticed though that afetr ive change the rear sway bar, that when it does slide it snaps back alot harder, where as before had no "snap" at all! just need time to play with it. but thanks for the info, given me a few ideas for later! hey nrb, try the link below http://www.uniqueautosports.com/pricelists...%20steering.htm

well hopefully the NSW boys will go out to wakefield in feb, i'll new tyres and some time to play with the settings! just with the feel of the car now, i think its the almost bald tyres causing the issue now

to follow on from pushhead, under the steering wheel, you remove the 2 bolts from the bonnet release and the one near centre console. push up and forward and that will come out. predator ran through the glovebox removal here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=30976 then there are about 6 screws near head unit/air con, 2 on the left and right sides on the dash. you also have to remove the handles on both sides, above your head, unclip that whole panel and remove the clips from sides of the dash. also need to pop out the vents for the demister ontop of the dash, and you'll need to reach right up under the dash to unclip the light sensor that goes up near those demister vents! there are 3 screws under these vents! then you just lift and you will need 2 people to make this anywhere near easy! and also may need to take the wheel off to get the dash over- dont even attempt to use the vents for leverage, they break real easy! take them out if you cant get a hold of the dash! just take your hand up from underneath and pop them out not hard! did this about 6months ago so i might be a little rusty!

i have to agree thats cops aint the best detectives. my mate came back from a HUGE night out and noticed he had parked in a timed no standing zone, still off his nut he moved it around the corner! woke up feeling sore in the morning and noticed his car wasn't were he parked it! called the cops reported it stolen, they came out and saw him! 2 days later (we were in melb at the time) his mate called and had found it around the corner! so much for investigating the crime scene

im in after 3rd feb, really keen! i'll bring a AE86 sprinter with me as well!!

try this thread, cant just buy one, you'll have to make it! http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...t=skyline+panel

sweet, cheers sydney kid! i have already moved the rear sway bar to the outer holes, and backed of the shocks closer to stock rates. have noticed a fair difference but will have to wait for new tyres as the ones on there are gone! front bar is already set to full stiffness, actually needed to swap the brackets that hold them on the actually get them all the way in (firmest setting)! thanks for the clarification! one more question, would the removal of the hicas also reduce oversteer? less momentum pushing it sideways? thanks again

hey predator, keep us informed on how it goes for you, i'll be doing mine next month, or next week, so if you can give us all some tips on how to do it, it would be great!!

true, but i was being lazy and was hoping to get it easy! give it a go tomorrow! cheers blind_elk !

if you put your hand between the seat and the back rest, move towards the outside of the car and down a bit there are 2 i think 10mm bolts. they screw into a metal loop on the bottom of the back rest! if you cant find them, just take the 2 bolts from the bottom seat and lift really hard the pull the bottom out and then you see them easy! bit more work but easier to find them!

yeah, just really need to put a socket through between the 2 parts of the seat and undo the 2 bolts, then lift and pull!! shouldn't need to take out the bottom of the seat!

hey, can anyone tell me which wires are for the brakes in the cluster on an R33? there are 2 options, green with white stripe and green with yellow stripe! i dont have a multimeter here so i cant check it! cheers

i had this, started off small, the one nice winter morning the thing sh!t itself and i had steam billowing out the windows! bypassed the core and had to buy a new core for almost $400! just need to put it in now!

Hey guys, im just havong a play around with the setup of the sway bars on my S1 R33 which i have put whiteline adj sway bars on. now since i installed them i have a noticeable increase in rear sliding/loss of traction, which is normal for stiffer rear sway bar. The thing is i was wondering if anyone can clarify the the settings on those sway bars. so my thoughts are the inside hole (furthest from the ends) is harder then the end holes. is this correct! basically if anyone could tell me for certain say outside to inside is softer to harder, i wouold really appreciate it! Cheers in advance

what kind of speakers are you putting in? im using 6X9's so i had to build a new parcel tray out of mdf to lift it up. other wise its basically seats out lift the parcel tray in the middle - bent it a fair bit then pull towards the front of car then unscrew the speakers the rest is up to the speakers you use! nothing real tricky unless your new speakers dont fit the the standard speaker mounts

port as in port maquarie? it's got 3 clubs nothing special though..