Craved

i think my fuel filter was from K & R and the part number was NR 01, looks alot smaller than what is in there, but was given (bought) from UAS so should be fine

Yeah it does have an alarm but it is inactive! and no black smoke when it starts, left it with a mechanic today so hope fully be done tomorrow! Think it's a fuel issue, but what im not sure!!

Timmy G check out this thread for that info on prepping the car. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...=respraying+car

depends on how much prep is neaded, spend 450 on prepping and paining from bar when i first bought it!! hope it gives you a guide

i've got one, not sure what they are worth though!!! will lend with deposit i guess!! offers? pm me location see if i can help

yeah just did my R33, cost me around 2K!!! did all prep myself though!!!

i wouldn't do that!!! think it is under the bell housing cover, where the clutch engages and disengages, there is a sline there that needs lube i believe!! if you have doubt email www.uniqueautosports.com they fixed it on my car!!

i just got one today, i'll check to part number when i get home in the morning!!

pretty sure it's a part within the clutch that can be adjusted by a clutch place etc cant remember the name for it though!! if i think of it i'll post back!

definately sounds bent to me!!! but im not sure who could repair them!! heard there was a place near castle hill but i couldn't find them.... be very hard to get just one, as it would probably need to be off a R34, wreckers would like to sell as a bundle, unless to speak to access auto engineering in melbourne as they are the ones who import the tein's... would be any bushes, unless within the shock, but either way it needs a rebuild or replacement!!! sorry mate, but not sure how your going to tackle this one!!!

Hey people, Have myself a large problem, well large for me When the car starts it will run for about 5 seconds then stall, if you increase the revs and hold at a certain level the car will still stall!!! has new spark plugs, and starts fine! bear in mind that the car has not been started in 3 months was wondering a few things, would this be caused by: A) removing the stock solinoid eg unplugging it from ecu B) fuel filter drying up and not allowing fuel through C) dirty airflow meter - how do it clean? D) suggestions please thanks fellas, dying to drive her again

the speedo is electronic!! but could be a stuck needle!!! if you wanna get the dash out you have to remove the panel around the stereo etc, this goes right across to the mirror controls!! then take out the section that surronds the dash stack 4 screws!! then there are 3 screws that hold the stack, once undone it is very tricky to get the plugs out, have to push both top and bottom then pull, there isn't much room here, will be easir with 2 people!!! not too sure that removing it will allow you to fix it!!! may need to take it to an instrument place!!! hope it helps a little

i had kenwood 2 ways in mine-- with a carbon fibre look!! unfortuately also had the usual japanese deteriorated (?) cone surrounds!!! splits must have been an option, 2 auto salon mags back they did a speaker change and used an R33, now their photos showed the supporter bracket for the front speaker with a small flat pannel on the side were they fitted the cross overs, mine doesn't have this though! Ripped Off

isn't it great how things always take longer than planned!!! the car is still not complete due to paint supply issues, well at least the outside and kit are all done now! can start putting my baby back together!! Best of all start driving again!!! The paint work ended up being great, little bits cold be improved on but these issues even professionals encounter!! over all i still believe it was worth the effort!!! should have her back together in about 3 days, so i'll be posting alota pics for any one interested!!

FLIP, Haven't slept for a while so im a bit stumped on which Tein coilovers i have now LOL think they are HR's well if you can turn the bar that comes through the pillow ball tops in your engine bay then they are adjustable!!! doesn't make the ride much softer at all, although the car did drop about 5 to 10 mm on lowest setting!! Locktite should work, or spend a couple of bucks on extra nuts!! easiest way to test my theory is to jack the car up on the side thats makes the noise, then quickly lift and drop the wheel (while still bolted on of course ) and see if it makes that noise!!! other wise you have to take the back seats out let us all know how you go with this!

was that can or cant feel it through the pedal???

oh yeah, forgot to put a reason because the shaft is round and tein haven't put a flat fave on the shocks means that you can only tighten it so much!! this is why the lock nuts are needed!!

well i had the same issue, with tein HR's! so seems a common thing! Now i installed them myself i knew knew what there was involved!!! luckily i left my seats (back) out for a while after putting them in! found that the nuts that hold the shock within the pillow ball mounts would come loose and the shock would move about 2-3 mm while going over bumps ---> first thought it was the pillow ball mounts but had them looked at!! Solution for me was to remove a spacer and add a second lock nut onto the top of the shock ---> problem fixed!!! it was that bad that every 50km i had to tighten them! you guys all got the helper springs installed?

Cheers mate, i'll go check em out!!! gotta install an oil cooler too, so there'll be a bit of extra piping!! did they have them in stock, or were the ordered in for you?

how about a day at wakefield in a corrolla even spent some time in the gravel trap, ooops. Glad it wasn't in my name!

yeah, as silverskyline said the centre skyline section is best removed! it has 4 nuts the can be removed from behind the boot latch, then it is push real hard (and even) to remove the light section which is held in with the black silicon (sikaflex) as used on windows. then only real way to get the water out would be to drain it out the clip for the indicator or reversing lights!! be very hard to get the blinker section off, same issue with the front of the headights!! then you'll have to clean up the light and body of the black silicon (takes a while) may need to get some from super cheap to replace this!! just make sure you dont get any on the body and light!!! will need thinners etc to clean this off, which is not good for your paint!! good luck with it!!

Silver-arrowz, Was that revolution racegear auburn? any rough ideas on the price of the remote oil filter plates? you then had to get the connections and braided lines right? would you think the setup exceeded $300 for you doing it this way?

spot on! jut make sure you put it around the right way around! arrow facing the actuator

where are you guys heading?

Dont the GT30 series have the same flange as the stock turbo's on the RB25DET? if so you could get a tuned length manifold made to use with standard turbo, til GT30 upgrade is made! does this sound valid? should improve response from the standard turbo too right?