Craved

Hey guys, looking for some opinions! Got an AE86 sprinter, currntly with a CA18DET conversion! Now with the issue, the car has actually gone through 4 CA18's due to a number of things, but the last engine just blew up after being run a 7,000 rpm in 5th gear for a fairly long period of time! It burnt out the rod bushes on cylinder 4, basically screwing the bottom end!! Just measuring up some options that we have now, which are to work the current CA18 giving it forged pistons, rods and a new crank rod, allong with boring out the oil wells to try and allow the oil to run to the bottom of the engine faster which we have been advised could have caused this issue! Also adding a larger and baffled oil sump! oh this engine is running a VL turbo pump with microtech computer and soarer FMIC running stock boost! APPROX. $3500 The other option is to actually replace the current engine with a stock SR20DET and a small amount of boost! obviously having to change the engine mounts and exhaust pipe and using the standard computer! can get half cuts to do this for the usual $3000 to $4000!!! What do you guys think would be a better option for reliability sake as this car does do track etc!! it runs great on stock CA18DET but the reliability doesn't seem to be any good!! but heard that the SR20's have some generic faults as well! which one would be a better option! All sugestions would be great!

Hippy may have meant www.uniqueautosports.com -- aussie company that does ship parts to the USA!!! same site as www.nismo.com.au, they have a few different domains so check em out!! hope it helps

Madtrang, Where did you get the window aerial from? i got one from stathfield radios and was wondering how good they actually work! removing the stock arial from my R33 so wondering how good radio quality is from these window arials!! this is mainly because they say to hook up to the demisters if signal is low!!! perhaps this issue will affect me too afters this install!!! any info would be good! Cheers

Basically the heater works using a small radiator in the aircon unit under the dash, air gets pushed past it and heats up!! i had mine do the same thing about year and a half ago --- still; not fixed as it takes alot of time to fix, have to remove the dash completely then remove the heater core and get that replaced/fixed!!! will be getting that done next week so i'll post here on how much to fix etc!! heater should still work abit but not well, and would suggest either getting it fixed now or bypassing the heater inputs in firewall til you can get them fixed!! or you'll keep that not so nice smell in your car, and run the risk of doing damage to engine due to over heating!!

Jigga, why would the climate control be affected by the new plenum?

what Km's are on your engine Blur? if all seems ok, might be able to organise a pickup!! looking at a 180SX front cut on friday so i'll let you know if it turns out as a DUD! what are you putting in the S13 if you remove the SR20?

well it's actually for a sprinter so either would do!!! my guess is that the 180SX motor would be cheaper!!! anyone know what the price difference for these 2 engines are? 200sx version would be great, but will have to see the price!

Looks like you might have the team sorted now, but i'll be there on sunday so we can chat about it then! will have to see if i'm working that weekend!!! was car 7 the white one with the blown engine?

Need a black top sr20, gear box and wiring harness!! got quoted $3,500, can any one do this cheaper? whether it be private or business doesn't really matter, preferably in NSW!!! Any info would be great! Thanks in advance.

well, the body kit is not playing nice!!! have to make heaps of adjustments to it before next week!!! the windows coming out on thursday-- obrien quoted $148 removed and resealed at a later date!!! so thats seems OK! then i've got little things like the boot lid and sealing the arial hole etc! should have it done no worries!! sprayed the calipers, and the coil covers, polished the engine and put in bonnet pins today! so got a bit done!! 2 days til i get the licence back so it'll be easier to get things done next week!!

read an srticle on a gtr with exact same issue, they concluded that it was that the shocks were too hard for the springs thus not allowing them to take the full forc e of the bump!!! if adjustable shocks etc, try a few different settings!!!

Under 60 seconds is really pushing it!!! i've done it in 1m 4 seconds on a daewoo and 1m 15 on an HQ! have you had a team do it this quick? i was in the team for car 50 in the wakefield 500!!! did you enter that event? if not working, might be able to help you out!!

just listened to your video, did your cars starter motor always make that sound after it started, sounds like it takes a while to retract!!! if thats hitting the ring gear might be making the sound but that doesn't explain the over heating!!! yeah definatley check the starter motor cacuse the sound keeps going after the car stops!!!

you might still wanna check it, up to you! maybe a lube mobile or something might be able to come out and do that check for you if you cant move the car around!! shouldn't cost too much, our mechanic just did it for nothing so dont know the cost!! hows the turbo sound? have you cleaned the AFM? had something strange like that in the 33, it was only when put on boost, and would pop and shudder when accelerating!!! turned out that the filter element came off and the AFM signal was out of whack!!

had a mates car do that recently, ended up being a blown head gasket!! hope that's not the case, does it rev ok up higher, and when warm? you can check the gasket pretty easy with the norm white stuff under oil filler, white smoke etc, or take it to a mechanic. they have a cool little device that goes on the radiator filler and chances colour when it meets exhaust gas, so no major work to check this!! hope it isn't this though!

if you can i'd be getting them to take that freont quarter panel off to see exactly how much damage is on that A pillar, if visable sign of dent/ movement along that line, should be ok, looks like something went over the bonnet, or car went under something!! I'd be checking the struts with a level and tape measure to see if its been pushed down at all!!! good luck with it though

you should be able to order any belt for imports from nissan these days, probably find it matches some local supplied car anyway!!! as for being tight, see what else the belt hooks onto!! eg the altenator, or air con pump!! if so those bits can be loosend and moved so that the belt can come off!! just do that, swap belts and move them out and tighten back up!!! shouldn't be too hard to do!!! dont have an R32 but you sure it's for the fan?

i'd be checking the little things like spark plugs, and putting injector cleaner through as well as checking the 02 sensor!!! does it only happen at idle?

you'll need a turbo rebuild to fix that!! i attached a photo (from the forums) and circled the bearings refered to!!! from memory i think there are 2 to keep the belt tight.... really hard to get to. have to take the radiator, fan etc off to get to them!!!

worst thing was it was a brand new 400R bumper. would have worried if it was a standard bar... Oh well!

your talking about your timing belt aren't you? if so it's not the easiest job in the world... not too say that you cant do it, but how are you going to check the bearings etc? if they snap after the change --- good bye engine! prob best to get a pro to check it all for you!!

The bearings refered to are the tensioner bearings that keep the timing belt tight, cause they break off, say good bye to your engine for a while what did you mean "turbo end float" ?

2 weeks til the spray! i get my licence back on friday, so i wont be ale to enjoy driving for a while yet!!!! Probably the best thing is i only have to catch the train 2 more times!!! Sounds like you've ot the spray organised now, how long til you get it done? What did the painter quote you on prep and spray without paint? have you got a price on paint yet?

if you want info on this setup, even with the rb25, you might want to look at the HPI R34 --- just got 291KW at the wheels, will give you an idea of what is possible!!! think they are similar turbos too!

You guys have got it good!!! i bought my 33 2 years ago and got a price for full comp and was quoted $7600!!!