Craved

only need 2 fuel pumps if one is not enough... even then i would run them externally being fed by a lift pump.

take them to a sand blaster - prob cost you over $100 for a set though

you want a lag stud - wood screw on one end, metric threaded stud on the other unfortunately i do not know if : A) you can get them small enough to suit your requirements - eg M6 B) you will be able to manouver the tray into place with studs fixed to the bottom of the tray if mounted close to the window there are other option such as a allen key counter sunk bolt, with a nut holding it in place under the tray (drilled out to have nut flush with the underside of the tray to hold the bolt captive) then run another nut under the metal tray your flush plate idea would work but is over thinking the solution - and could be fabricated easily by a metal fab shop or home welder

Looks great Georgie - glad you're that excited with them

heard about streeter a fair bit over on jdmst - might look into it - though that adds shipping times etc

$600 from nissan spares for an RB20det pump dont really want to deal with a 2nd hand oil pump if i can help it - unless SSS now do new parts too?

So i need to track down a new oil pump for an RB20DET - this seems to be more tricky for the RB20 than the other RB's RB20DET oil pump from fast seems to be - 15010-79S05 while this doesnt correspond to any of the other RB entries i.e. RB25DET is 15010-21U01 looking at around the $330 mark for an RB30et oil pump with the rb30e being more expensive than its turbo brethren. the pump are interchangeable from what i can see and read, but thats rb26 and RB25 onto RB30 etc etc can i run any pump on the RB20DET without any issues?

your thread doesnt show the actual connecting to the plastic part of the tank though

are these your projects? im not really sure since i dont want to sign up to another forum to see whats in there, perhaps you can paraphrase the post so others can see it without another forum login to add to ours lists lol

heat tape on the cam cover blends into the ceramic well, took me a while to spot it. setup looks neat dude, got any shots of where you connected the braid to the factory lines and life pump/return etc?

yeah cool, in NSW there was even a campaign to encoruage driving with lights on during the day. how you could find it annoying is beside the point of this thread. OP: just run a potentiometer then, dial it down at night.

yeah i do that too, thought about it but thought it was a rare occurance -

potentiometer inline or a switched resister run off a relay thats triggered by your illumination wires from the dash to achieve what munkyboy mentioned - ie dims itself when lights are on

cant edit any posts after an hour or so - no point refering to a thread in NS.com either If you want a build thread here, keep it updated properly

here is the crutch of your problem "Acrylic Lacquer Con’s Has to be ‘buffed’ and polished to achieve a good shine. Is not as chip and scratch resistant as 2 Pack. 2 Pack Pro’s Has a shine straight off the gun, great for areas that are hard to polish such as engine bays and door jambs. Is very hard and scratch/chip resistant once set." 2k acrylic doesnt need to be buffed to have a full gloss, regular acrylic does. get out your 2000grit paper and get smoothing - then buff it out - you could try the meguirs buffing kit - comes with the electric orbital buffer etc and i dont think its too expensive.

its just a flat black

that design is easy to do, though a little more time consuming if you wanted the polished areas cleared so you would never have to repolish them. If you are handy with tools, just get someone to powdercoat them, then get a die grinder with a flat sanding attachment on it, sand it back with multiple grits - then polish the raised bits being careful not to hit the rest of the rim.

pretty sure you cant knock-off metallics - that would only work with solids and clears

got any side on shots Simon? looks like the motor moved itself closer to the firewall on you...

i think its strange that its not the drive side of the keyway that damaged

looks like a caliper rebuilds in order too if those are both rear brake pads - looks like a sticky piston so much potential for awesome with these cars

looks like you could also unbolt the centres to get -6 on the offset also - same thing is done on the BBS 3pce rims also

advan by the looks of it

you are correct of course i just hadnt worked with 5 series alloys yet. i decided to investigate - here a good little guide i found that might be useful to others http://www.plantengineering.com/article/18...inum_alloys.php interesting fact about the 150F extending heating they mention in regards to the 5356

always nice work mate curious about the silicon content of your rilfler rods though - from the shine on those welds it would be higher % ?