Craved

i got ACL rings for the rb30e pistons im going to use in my conversion, should be able to pickup some A/M rings for stock RB25 also.

couldnt you use the continuity setting on a multimeter to check the wires from the horn relay to the wheels button? Most probes from the multimeters would reach that distance.

eastbear copies have rails made for them, so straight fit if you buy the rails to suit. Bride rails arent much cheaper if at all. i have a stock 33 seat at the shop, i'll try to have a look at it this week, see how hard it is to remove the rail from the seat on those. if its not too bad, then fabing up an adapter to bolt the new seat to your stock rail shouldnt be hard - just cant sell off your old seat without teh rails on them

you need to get rails for those also Dave

i kept it with mine, so yes you can

dont really need to move it on an R33 - there is plenty of room for bends up from under it to the TB's

used to be over 40 was instant loss of licence (as in on the spot) - spewen they reduced that and upped the points from 4 to 5 demerits for 30-40

thats exactly how it used to be.

there is always AUSpost if you cant get what you need locally Biggest thing to what for is the mounting points for the heater units, there are a couple of mounts up there, but i cant recall exactly where.

you will probably have less than an inch - just cant recall have a look for the heater core DIY threads, should have pics of dash out as the only bits in that area is the heater/blower box

hammer only real option without taking the dash out completely to section the area and weld in a new piece. You cant introduce too much heat either as there is the firewall insulation on the inside.

mill is exactly what you need - just remember you'll need to make some spacing washers at the same angle as the flange so you can still bolt the turbo down with enough tourqe at that angle. you'll probably need to drill out the holes int he turbo haousing also to accomodate the new angle of the studs/bolts

you can get the struts shorter - but that only lets you move the body mount back 45mm from the current bonnet position when you think about angles and leverage - the more upright you go the stronger the struts need to be to hold the bonnet up. that moves onto other issues of bonnex flex when trying to close it. i'll make some calls tomorrow when things open, get some prices on custom struts that might just work with a new idea i just had

all a matter of leverage and the compression lengths of the struts i looked at mounting them on the inside wheel well, basically there isnt enough room for the struts to compress and be open enough when the bonnet is open.

well got mine installed, just in the process of building some better mounting points for them as the single bolt doesnt hold them well enough.

not really no, picked up a 2nd hand VY commodore radiator for nothing due to having split tanks, think i'll look at getting another one and running these in dual core as they are cross flow.

what strength struts did you use? i got myself some 150NM ones, found the closed/open measurements online. just hoping there is clearance on the r33's for them. try and get them installed tomorrow

s/e suburbs of what city? if its the inside of the flange then a file then porting tool should be able to sort you out, outside you could just use a file. Hard to give a good recommendation without more info.

i wouldnt baby it, as babying doesnt really change too much i had a small leak in mine years ago, couple days later sitiing in peak hour morning traffic it burst and filled the cabin with steam lol was probably pretty funny to watch, but not cool for holding coolant. really need to look at bypassing it quickly

i'd get a stocker from a wreck - its obvious its getting the signal to the cluster as the ODO is moving. you could find a dash repairer - but cost wise better off getting another one.

maybe its just me, but isnt squeeling belts mean they are slipping? why are we lubing up belts that are meant to GRIP the pulleys to make them turn?

earth out the signal wire on the tank opening to test the bulb - much easier than removing the cluster to check lol

you still get the KMS clocking over? mine doesnt do that unless the speedo works, sounds like a cluster issue. like someone pulled the needle off for an EL guage kit or something and broke it.

lol no problem - shiney paint distracted me too

from my own looking into this problem, the ECU gets the signal from the cluster - so if your cluster doesnt have a speed signal you ECU wont either.