Craved

none of mine had glue, just the rubber gasket between the parts - undo all bolts and lift lol - just watch your teeth

well - then you could use a nutsert/rivnut but that will only work of the hole in the guard is round, not square like on the 33's best bet is to find someone wrecking a 34 and see if you can get the "nut" from the guard

so front bar to the guard? cant you use a regular bolt with a lock nut? havent pulled apart an r34 yet, so hard to know on your model specifically

ahah whoops, guess i should have clicked this before posting my pics

i love the result the only thing thats been bugging me was the blending of teh side skirt into the rear quarter - it doesnt have the stock look to it, and will make it alot of work if the skirt gets damaged

Ceramic coating the inside and outside of the manifold will help on that side

Think Tony is after single piece custom bent pipes, jnt do the elbows and the others do too. but to give them the dimensions and the angles to bend, then get a single pipe bent - do the above do that?

yeah you can still get them, discussed it when i got my 3 phase MIG. lol i've been on the US z forum for years, still waiting to get a 240z one day lol http://www.hybridz.org

you'll need to get them fabbed up, only front facing plenum that comes with the kit and IC that i know if is the plazmaman

measure twice, drill once and use masking tape over the location of the hole to help stop it from fraying.

proper bead blasting, as in glass bead, should not pit the alloy - it will actually start to polish it. if you are super sensitive regarding the substrate, go with soda blasting. as to original bronze, there is a thread in this section that gives the paint code, not sure if it was correct or not... but from all the bronze powdercoats i've looked at, im yet to find a match then again i havent had a set to work with to make a match to either.

Shan, same smell i got from it haha - the thing that gave it away most was the automated template used, that worked on the other thread in the US Alloy welding requires more amps than mild steel, but as VB- stated nylon liner is best practice along with the correct gas shield- depending on the mig you get, you could get a spool gun for it that holds the roll on the gun to stop binding in the gun.

smithmiller also created an account on a US based Z forum and asked the exact same question .....

guess that would depend on how many bars have been pulled from the mold, they flex and move and eventually stop turning out good parts.

I would run some solid welds first, as you can imagine there is potential for alot of movement once the welding begins, tack welds have a habit of breaking or allowing movement. ps. is the body off the chassis? is that what you mean by "remove the whole unit" ?

very nice mate, those fittings work perfectly with the colour scheme

flynn performance have teh cheap ones on ebay - they are a pain to see out of, especially when raining. the base plates are also dodgy 2 piece things, then the mirrors bolt onto them

Lets keep it on topic thanks, without attacks or joke links shall we.

oh yeah, we are still good for a shoot. Let me know when you are ready and driving her

some powdercoated ones Mitchy_ dave sanded the plenum and cross over before passing them to me to coat. cheaper for him to sand that, than to get me to do it. though im sure he wished someone else had done it, lots of work still. Alternative is a quick sand, prime, resand then coat in colour. and yes, no more polishing after a month, just wash with soapy water

Looks really good completed, hope you got the black stealth AN fittings for the breathers. looks a bit different to the shots i took of your parts lol - though i forgot to take any of the brace/rad mounts and injector caps only suggestion now - $30 worth of cup washers to tidy up some of the bolts in there.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Qu...tml&hl=mold

I dont think you'll be able to mash a 4" pipe to fill that hole. the crease marks on teh x force one certainly make it look like the collector is welded on som 4" pipe, the rest could be sheet metal folded and formed into the required shape. edit : prob better to cut the rear off the wastegate merge and extend this back around the Bend further.

good link Shan