Craved

doesnt really make the wheels look any smaller with that time attack design. i did it on my 33 stock rims

yeah FMS has a great range of this gear, i think they moved recently into a side street off powers rd in 7 hills

looks like its been decked alot in some areas nice mod, just curious about what happened to make it need that extra work?

you dont need to allow it to dry between layers

is the sensor on its own line? ie. a T off the pressure line? if so couldnt you get someone to fab up a replacement line from stainless tube locally? that way you could weld the old fittings to it without the need to get a line shipped? and off topic, how'd you get a 33 in the USA?

harnesses are easy to swap over normally, really depends on the makeup of them.. ie the amount of connectors available to split the front harness from the engine loom etc.

http://www.ppc.au.com/products.htm have a look at those products instead.

love the sticker near those rims Chris lol tempting prices though

why do you need this zinc chromate ? google search found this straight away "Zinc chromate dust has the potential to cause short-term health effects such as skin irritation, rashes, ulcers and irritation of the eyes, nose and throat. The National Occupational and Safety Commission (NOHSC) determined that there is sufficient evidence to establish a casual association between human exposure to these substances and the development of cancer. Zinc chromate, as a dry film, is inert and presents no risk if it stays that way. It’s only when it is disturbed by sanding, grinding and welding activities that it presents a health risk." Understandibly nearly everything causes cancer these days, but a good underbody sealant doesnt come with that type warning. There are plenty of rust proofing products out there without such risks - my recommendation is the POR-15 range. Just a heads up for you though, soda blasting will most likely cost you more, but there is less chance of panel demormation AND the residue it leaves protects the metal from rust until such time as you can properly seal the metal - ie the panel shop.

pretty sure you'll need to mod the PS pump once you remove the Hicas unit, there are some how to's i've read a while back.

haha my bad, you're correct

so your heater hoses are leaking- if they plug into the firewall

im a little confused as to your question. But the thermostat controls the water LEAVING the engine, so this maintains via its flow control the temperature of the water inside the motor. there is very little chance of a radiator that works too well damaging the motor whilst a correctly working thermostat is in place.

Dave - throw up the nissan part numbers for future reference

ahhh than is a good job for a ball pien hammer, there have been some threads proviously with results and other people using rollers or pipes on the tyres etc.

you still need to scuff the current paint back, then run the clear and additive, then another plain clear ontop again, then wet sanding and buffing if required. best to go to your local painter and ask, Darwin prices might be different to other areas.

its usually under $50 return shipping along the east coast from my experience with other customers mailing them up and back, not sure i could get an exact match to the gun grey metallic but i could find something close. depends on who's painting them and what your being charged really as to whether its an option for you

rb25 or 26? 25's are steel and you need them painted 26's respond well to paint stripper, comes off really easily and is a semi polished finish underneath. that smoothness is the main reason for the coatings failure, no priming is done over a smooth surface.

dont think your CAS will swap over from the 25 to the 26 - you'll have to check the keyways.

Pretty sure HPi or Drift Battle did an article on the cut and fibreglass method on a VIP style car, if you read these go back a year or so and have a look.

if these didnt sell, then i'll take them

looks good though, those flat (shinier) spots would prob be from not enough paint on them, even coating is the key. nice start! did you put them in a warm place (sun) once you caoted to help with the wrinkling effect, have seen a few "how to's" for this paint and this has been common requirement

\on the cans already hey Duncan lol theres your wheels lol

Red requires the use of a decal, due to the nature of powdercoating red bleeds into white. white over black doesnt bleed so can use a decal as a template for white powder. not a cheap process due to the time it takes, will reply to your pm

you think that polyethelyne will form under heat? if you used big washer and bolted it up as a flat sheet in multiple place, then heated it up it might stretch to reduce the tension on ridges then cool to keep the shape. i would take it back to the firewall, putting in vents like naca ducts to help the air exit that area. air must be able to leave the engine bay efficiently to stop the tray creating lift on your front end at higher speeds.