Craved

no speed reading will mean no power steering. 33's are electronic, you can pull the speed sender out of the back of the gearbox and check the gears, just hope its the gears as thats easier to fix then an electrical problem.

Lee - the oil drain could be welded onto the sump directly if you dont know the info on the drilling of the return. say -12 AN or bigger welded onto the alloy sump - Oil feed - look at the fittings of your turbo, find if a restrictor is needed, then drill and tap according to what you need, there is nothing really stating that you need a specified size, we just use what the block has since there is no choice. - Torque settings can be the standard of your donor motor, 26 or 25 i believe are the same - look for an R33 engine manual through google.

stock guage is electical there are areas on each side of teh engine bay for wiring, but you can always drill a hole and put in a grommet.

all dependant on the fit up of the manifold you have and the turbo size, you wont know til you mock fit it up.

2 holes in lower left need to be filled with standard grommet and the pumps.

blast first - seal it - then work on rust repairs

$12.50 for shipping thats ludicrus haha was that 3" or 4"

first thing to ask is : are they legally modified cars? if not then that explains the lack of need of the presence of the owners, all engineer certified cars have marking on the rego sticker. this is the main reason i dont drive my blue 33 for the sake of driving it, until i can get it all finished and engineered i dont want to run the gauntlet of cops and their defects.

Terry - nice old thread lol BUT - you called them to get a price on the NACA's ?

Hi James, your most likely to find the best information available on http://forum.r31skylineclub.com/news.html for 31 details regarding your front bar etc 4 stud rims are out there, mainly 5 studs for sale on this forum due to most cars here are 5 stud

i'll see if i can work out the space you need. if this one is designed to use a metal to metal connection, a paper gasket would work better than rubber, or even simply RTV style sealant.

wouldnt simply a lens hood resolve that, instead of a another expensive lens lol

haha nice shot Dan - cloudy here all night so didnt get to see it

Pete, if the plenum is off now, what is the length of the spacers holding it up off the base? then measure the gasket you have, also is that gasket the metal reinforced one or the plain rubber?

1/12/08 5:30am

try the Wanted To Buy section - or for sale section to search.

then technically you dont need a box then the whole point of the enclosures really is for legallity - they must be seperated from the cabin by something... so if you have exposed hoses, your not going to get away with it on an ADR perspective. the correct hoses would remove fuel smell by default. are you using JIC and not AN fittings? havent really seen JIC available many places. My own system is mounted along the boot where the battery used to be, i'll be flanging it down to the stock fuel inspection cover so its totally sealed from the cabin, without anything exiting the sides of teh enclosure other than wiring. any way you go, you will need to run grommets through the side of teh box, Jaycar have some great 3 piece screw on grommets than are waterproof (so leak proof for vapor)

I spoke to my mate today that does all folding and cutting i need in alloy, he is willing to make these, with lexen lid or folded section like original picture. About $175 each for the dimensions given by Phunky_monkey - plus shipping to Melb of course. all folded , welded, recessed and Nut-serts and Allen key bolts. Ryan - no need for the male to male fittings as that defeats the purpose as the connections are still outside of the box.. but can be done if you get the fittings needed to pass through 2.5mm alloy

did you know the welder that did it for $20 ? i cant think of any way that any business could do that and make any money. you needing a drive in, they weld it then drive out service? or can you remove the piece and hand it over? either way i could help you out at some point but im a bit of a drive from the hills. (40mins away)

call them and ask ? if your guage is reading in teh STOICH area while on the gas at high revs you're in trouble.

i think from memory a straight bar extension should allow you to get to them from underneath.

these filters are about $100 from Motorsport connections in sydney. for $140 or so it may save you another $1500 or what ever your rebuild cost.

anyone want to suggest a colour for me to coat those washers in ? or should i leave them brushed stainless?

you wont want less than standard caster... that suggestion was if you have aftermarket caster rods with them dialled into large caster angles.

powdercoat handles from 110C constant to 170C peaks in service. there are so many blacks its not funny too