Craved

cha-ching! very good advice Brazing always looks not so great , but would work. even if you cant find a mild steel thread in NPT like your fitting you should be able to find stainless which will TIG to mild http://www.mscn.com.au has these weld ons

are you getting fuel to the engine? follow the hose from the Fuel pressure regulator, and disconnect it from the line damper near the fuel filter... crank the car with that hose in a bucket or tub. if it starts to fill up your ok there - if not your pump is not sweitching on or is shagged

late rtesponse but - no the aircon wont work with the heater box removed. the heater bos is also the area that channels the air into the different locations ... so it'll still blow cold air, but it wont be mounted onto anything and wont direct the air anywhere. just half way through the full dash removal on my latest r33 now

paint code should be on your VIN plate on the firewall

removing the thermostat isnt too hard. you could probably run water through the top hose outlet with the thermostat removed to reduce the restriction allowing the water to flow through.

S13 ones from memory

there are 2 ari controllers for the plenum. as per the pic below - seems they all have different namings when looking in different locations.

is this at the old location though on victoria avenue? couldnt remember the company name for them when i wrote my last post

http://www.fibreglassmaterials.com.au/ they can sell you the carbon twill in different types- also the resins you need. grab 2 sheets of glass and make your own. there was another carbon shop in castle hill but i cant remember the name of it, was close to where UAS used to be located.

CPC and plazmaman have them AAC is auxillery air control idle air control - is located seperately

use a timing light and set it back to 15 degrees BTDC

this early on and not thinking about it too much a) i remember seeing a conversion like this just recently b) it would be similar to the r34 drift car with the twin turbo LS1/2/3 V8 worth it -- thats up to you really - motor size and setup would be nice -

so you are talking about the AAC then, not the IAC ? 2 plugged unit - from looking at another RB20 plenum i've worked on - the AAC can be installed by simply drilling 5 holes in the flat back section of the plenum - 4 bolts holes and the AAC's plenum feed hole. hardest thing about it is : - having a enough room to fit it - flat surface for mounting - running the air hose from the IC piping from infront of the TB so its not that hard, just a little fiddly.

no you dont

sam was a HIT with the (old) ladies all thanks to ando putting the good word in for him - BTW ando - keep the puppies inside the cage YA!!!!!

orly ??? hahah i would have replace3d them ages ago if i new that hahahaha best bet if you can get to the back of them is simply apply force to the side of the part you cant see ... engages the thred on teh screw more to allow them to be unscrewed with a driver - also dont put any force down on the screwdriver as you try to undo them

i wish i could mate

no that price is correct already painted my bike in Mil jade

actually closer to a VX commodore to be honest - it is almost a direct match for the commodore colour.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/VI...you+want+fasted sure is

PLYNx - thats a real good go at it mate - i like it.

thats 1.5 hours from me or i'd help out lol

happy birthday Adam!

tomei have the restrictors - think hi-octane in SYD have them too though others have made their own from solid rod and a drill.

looks similar to the GTSR manifold, though the location of the gate feed looks all wrong.