Craved

nope no bigger versions - still enough detail visible to be able to cross reference turbos

i would use a POR 15 product on the diff cradle - use the prep and finish to kill the existing rust, then protect it. you could always go as far as getting it sandblasted and powdercoated.

i cant even see how you could bolt the CAS on if the keyways werent aligned. just hop its the CAS thats buggered and not the Cam when it comes to repair costs.

see if they match

as long as you run some kind of air feed into the box, the radiant heat from the thin wall wont have as much effect. i use a copy of that partition on my blue car, just modified to take a 100mm intake pipe.

keep checking the for sale section - one sold in april on SAU r32 GTR N1 boot lip spoiler

haha nope - though he could ask the owner of that car where it goes he's posted pics in one of the catch can threads in the Fabrication section.

sounds good, just not much detail in your first post what material did you use thats so thin? most alloy tubing i see is pretty thick

Bugger other option is the remove the cover, degrease - tap a thread into the cover and use a push on fitting from earls/speedflow or weld on a dash fitting and use screw ons - but that about $150 process not including lines

so you want the breather fitting from the intake cam cover of an rb25 - simple L fitting. might be listed in FAST, can check when i get home if you like

what are you going to do with the breathers now? and the AAC feed? been thinking if i wanna do this to the new 33 or not ..

Hey Nic i've got a HKS version of the 3040 - so i can give some info on that on the rb25 if you like. i've attached a dyno sheet from the rb25 and a 1.12 rear housing with poncams, this may give you an idea on how it runs. quick edit - this was done with a really crap wastegate that was sticking and causiong boost control issues. hence the 2 runs with different response and peak power.

if the CAS was buggered, i wouldnt think the injectors would fire. checked the wiring on the CAS, had an issue with a customer car where a wire cracked after removing the CAS from the wiring to coat the parts, soldered up and off it went.

use photobucket to host your pics, it automatically reduces the size for you. and that looks like the rear half of the crank in those pics, so that would be piston/cyl 5 - but looks alright to me

cheers mate, i have a spare, so i'll prob swap them over then work it out just noticed a new thread about it, maybe theres a how to somewhere.

Trav33 - thats for series 1 only.

depending on how bad the outside is, you can start with ali-brite from supercheap - sulfuric acid mix for cleaning alloy inside i'd just use degreaser - or ask a radiator shop

well does anyone have a solution for the actual whining backlash ? i have this and need it fixed if possible if someone could guide me along cheers Looks likea reshim is required from my internets searching - this sound correct?

ok while your talking about it which way is which - is it like the old HA's where full clockwise is stiff and anti clockwise soft? just picked up a car with the aus specs and need to loosen the rear

hahaha @ floody they have kits for the full car, so all 4 sides real carbon, and subtle

also check for exhaust leaks, cracks in pipes can cause backfiring style pops

as long as it works out cheaper than a Just jap cooling pro i'll be happy not something i HAVE to get done, but i want to make one - radiator filler necks arent price listed from motorsport connections so i'll find that price out tomorrow hopefully. i'll be running a remote filler so there is no cap on the radiator itself (like a falcon with it on a remote reserve tank) so i can weld up a new canister well above the top of the motor for bleeding. would like to have multiple returns similar to how the GTRs water outlets are across the TB's, but i'll need to look into the water routing in the rb25 heads.

www.bee-r.com but google it and translate - go to PARTSon left and select carbon parts on bottom right

nismo.com.au

im pretty sure you'll find it deep within the switch itself, similar to r33 climate control lights etc. you need to get into the back of teh switch's button think it will turn out to be a grain of wheat LED