Craved

no responses from the request thread? you running it aupon your current cage? or bolt on? or as a strut brace also? if you were in syd i'd help you out.

Done on base Sean ? if you need a hand, im nice an local so just let me know. looks like its under control though

- put new rims on - lower it - look at the simple things, like carbon gt style mirrors - ensure a nice exhaust note - offset front plate - look at BeeR carbon kit extensions - they used to be on their site, basically bolt under your kit and stick out about an inch

which method did you use to cut it out? any plans for the side cut outs?

yep i'll have to look into the space that is available and spend some time at a natrad store trying to get one that will work. i think the commodore one we used in a mates sprinter for this was about $110

DONT SELL THE MIG you will always find a need for it - speed and ease compared to TIG - especially if you havent done much TIG work. plus dependant on what your doing, even if you start TIGing your mild steel you'll end up with a spot you cant get the nozzle into and you'll have to mig it.

the stuff im refering to is ridged like the AG pipe, just in alloy. so it bends and retains its shape pretty well. the one thing is how to mount it without crushing it as its stiffness is lower than AG pipe- but the benefit is its easier to get tighter bends. still - even the normal ag pipe with small holes in it will provide additional airflow regardless, and less chance of water build up in wet weather.

check your hand brake lever - there is the earth switch located on teh drivers side of them, check for an old turbo timer wire for the auto engine cutoff - it may be creating an earth which will turn on the light.

LOUD NOISES!!!!!

you get to the 4 bolts from underneath the bootlid - you will need to peel back the carpet lining to get to them from memory.

thats definately possible. and if anyony knows if you can join 2 thinner alloy cores together without having major flow issues that could be an option also.

Hey All, Just wondering if anyone had contacts where we can buy alloy cores without tanks from, preferably in sydney area. Large cores required either std top to bottom - or side tanked cores would be better to create a new twin pass radiator if i can with remote tank. i'll be making a new radiator for an R33 Gtst and im hoping to these cores arent too expensive. i'll also be looking at the vt commie v6 cores as they are side tanks and pretty thick std from memory - will have to confirm core sizes soon.

not sure on ag pipe, but bunnings sells 100mm alluminium air con ducting that would work for you

you hang it with a bolt through the Valve's opening. you musta got lucky with them already doing a white run

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Hi...l=HICAS+removal

hahaha open your fuel filler cap - look at where the cap screws in, the restrictor that stops you using the old Leaded petrol bowzer is what im refering too. basically from under the car - you need to look on the other side of the fuel filler hole. aka - the head of the pipe from filler to the fuel tank

im guessing its ABS related my S1 non ABS doesnt have it

still no shots of a flared R33 guard. and none from the thread starter

shouldnt be any glue on them unless they have been replaced dodgy in the past - rubber gasket and a couple of push in plastic lock tabs should be it after removing the bolts.

lol steve - and i guess its ok to push the car for the brake test

you need to check out the old style compliance fuel filler restrsictor they force into the filler pipe area, alot of these arent sealed properly.

Cool vid, thanks for sharing. nice turnout and some great cars.

contact cleaner to clean the hotwire try it - also try disconnecting the AFM - if the rev dont change it might suggest the contact points within the AFM are broken/not 100% - you could test another persons AFM if available

rb30 thermostat is direct fit replacement. all cars should run one, my car sits at 76 degrees with my rb30 thermostat and the PWR radiator. as for R33's - yes they should all come with thermostats - someone removing them for some silly reason. doesnt help the car at all to remove it.

i need to bite here everyone says the GT wing is rice - but when it allows me to carry atleast an extra 10km/h through the kink at wakefield i dont think it is, and the added braking stability it offers after the kink is really noticeable. while most dont use it for what it is for, some do - so the generalisation really annoys me lol As for the flush section - of the cars that run the lip and a GT wing it doesnt look right to me, also forces you to move the wing forward reducing its effectiveness. any way you go with a GT wing you need to put some effort into the mounting area, the skin of a boot inst the most stable surface to mount a wing that works on. if you put the GT wing on and nothign else, you need to weld up the boot lid to remove the old holes and then repaint it..