Craved

Check out Twoogle - r32 GTR with r34 GTR rims in black for how the rims will look. - in latest HPI mag im hoping to have my new setup done in about a month then i'll be able to help you out with coating the rims im near Richmond so not too far from you aswell.

powersteer hoses dont really need the specific bends they have, but the sizes of generic dont exactly match with the nissan piping. but can be done easily remove your old hose - go to enzed pirtek and get them to match the internal dimensions of the existing hoses.

get a mechanic to check it with a mechanical guage - incase its the guage reading low and not the actual oil pressure - if its low, then it doesnt look good.

CAS light? normally a CAS will either work or not from what i have seen. high idle is usually just a vacuum leak or a dirty AFM or AAC valve - so clean those up first before spending cash on a new CAS.

Have you tried Ali-Brite on your welds? i have a bottle just need to try it out. Mate of mine swears by this stuff to clean the oxide off the welds, less work on the polishing wheel Ali-Brite is basically sulfuric acid and water. i have some of my old learning welds, just need some time to run a test with this stuff. Other trick with the welds, pre soaped steel wool from coles - works awesome as the marks from that buff out easy too. hahahaha - im guessing he'll be outsourcing polishing from now on

partyboy73 has it right, remove them and start again fresh, only take you half a day on a weekend, and shouldnt come back for a long long time.

pm sent

definately use a heat gun to help soften the taillights then push them out. as 75coupe has said they are all glued in to one piece

getting better at this polishing i was polishing this plenum prior to powdercoating it with a candy - but it doesnt fit in my oven new oven in a month or so, so that'll fix that

i undid the top cover of the tank (in the boot) and syphoned it out through there, also lets you see where the very bottom most point is aswell.

they are just clipped on, but will take some work to remove. im pretty sure the rear shit bars are bolted through the panel, lower B pillar clips into this section holding it on too. just need to look at it to work out what needs removing.

just to add, mine works on the race track without issue, and up old pac .. also replaced the whole cluster and same issue. r33 is electronic - i have had the red gear checked on the speed sensor and it looks fine to my mechanic - continuity check would be great if you could get a wiring diagram of the dash console for 33's

yep, this is the one i have wanted for a long time.

if i remember correctly, that whole section of window surround was steel and sealed with sikaflex style window sealer. not too sure you'll be able to get that outer lip seperate without a window as well.

well if you dont have it on re-circ mode its always going to blow air through the vent - moreso when windows are open.

BCPR7ES – 8 or 11

it'll be like $25 for the set of copper plugs - dont fret its cheap as 0.8 you wont have issues - 1.1 might have issues depending on mods and fueling etc worst case you can regap the 1.1's down to 0.8 if you know how. mist places will stock teh 1.1s and not the 0.8s so either or really. still dont think shitty plugs will stop it from starting.

checked the connections at teh demister itself? in behind the C pillar plastics - negative is on he drivers side in 33's

i've had this issue for years, still havent found a cause

VHT works fine, mines been VHT gold for 3 or 4 years now. they just dont pop enough for me colour wise. i used thinners and a wire brush on mine to clean, same deal with not removing them. waiting for a new candy gold to come in my next batch of powder then i'll get my spares coated.

Shan - any pics of the front section finished? with something that seal on the front vents out fo the engine bay into the guards would work the same as leaving vents on the underneath - 2 ducst like on the rear section on the front section would work too. naca duct for the diff cooling is a good idea.

Dont forget that you actually still want the air to be able to leave the engine bay from the bottom of the car, if you seal it to well it will actually create lift on teh front end and hamper your handling not help it. that said, if done correctly it will help remove air from the engine bay causing low pressure in the bay and helping downforce (or atleast decrease lift) use this time to seal from the front bar to your cooler, then from cooler to radiator to increase efficiency of both. also forces air the go elsewhere Ie to the sides, which will also increase the efficiency of the front end and reduce drag.

definately possible mate, just whether or not your coater will be willing to do it

sun sensor is in the dash on r33 on left side R33's dont have the sensor in the front bar, 32's do for outside air temp sensor.