Craved

PAID and details emailed to Adam .

an angle grinder with a thin stainless steel cutting blade will give a neater finish than a jigsaw if you have to use a jigsaw get a fine tooth blade for it

was the sensor plugged in behind the little vent? hose and elecs ?

it merely moves that lip up, not going to as strong as std, but its not going to be weak either

yeah chuck us a PM with exacts and the colour you want.

WOW - thats ummm ..... nasty? atleast the extra work will ensure it looks great, but will cost you a bunch to do. if you can, get lots of pics of the prep work to make them work, always interested in new techniques for fixing this sort of stuff.

how apart did you pull them? where is it weeping from? - between 2 halves or rear fluid lines or around the piston or bleed valve? they split into 2 halves and are sealed using 2 square cut orings. i would say to replace these you will need a rebuild kit that will include these seals. $45 a side for front calipers.

unfortunately the valley cover on teh RB25det's are plastic and cant be coated.

Stan, you still got any of this stuff? im after the fuel rail

well not needing the filler is reassuring as i didnt use it on my ext gate plumb back pipes

he isnt in AUS

pretty sure they will be blasted either way - either that or acid etched

so the bolt for the harmonic balancer?

tb = throttle body just get new copper plugs if you wanna change em , not expensive. start with the battery.

thats the go, tack welds moving around the panel surface/edges to ensure any movement is countered with the new tack. hopefully you have a mig welder with good wire feed control, this method is pretty hard with a cheap mig that doesnt do slow wire speeds you can tig them also, up to you and what you have access to.

fused no filler? i need to look into the differences in weld strength between the two - especially with the consistant temp changes exhausts undergo. whoops, forgot to mention it looks good, nice weld colours

dont forget to figure out what did it, didnt even know there was a 75A fuse anywhere in the 32's

will it match? that will depend on the colour choices the coater has, looks like a stamped steel or high metallic gun metal. will cost a bit more than paint yes, but you wouldnt need to worry as much as normal paint as to whether it will last just an option is all,

powdercoat it all:) if everything is out of the box and case, they'll blast and coat it for ya..

if your dash lights arent on when cranking its the battery

have you got any shots of the damage to the Van? the car shots of yours show that the hit was likely to be in the B pillar/rear of door. at the angle of the skid marks you outline, the drivers side of his van would have connected with your car first. which is supported by the damage angle behind your door. drivers side wheel skid mark from the van you outlined starts on the correct side of the broken give way line, which would suggest that the front of your car was out in the middle of his lane towards the centre line. just how i read it with the photos given. either way you are safe, if insured just ups the premium for later and you cop an excess.

haha now i recall Fatz's s13 with the SOHC and a gaping hole in the bonnet sure it can be done then just more tricky

look into the rb25/20 conversions and check heights .. as the extra 38mm i believe would be alot more trouble in the S chassis, i could be wrong though

33's dont get the outside temp sensor

i dont think he wants to sell it lol i want a new one through him as snap-on dont normally sell to the public