Jump to content
SAU Community

Craved

Members
  • Posts

    17,563
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    100%

Everything posted by Craved

  1. +1 but i would probably split the rubber off the spacers as there is nothing holding the rubber in place with the cover off.
  2. pay special attention to teh CAS and ignitor in your pic
  3. think Volk use annodising to colour their rims .. sounds like its started to etch the surface and remove the annodise : check the MSDS of the exact wheel wash you used. titanium lips are titanium, you would need a 3 piece wheel, then buy the outer lip section seperate in titanium.
  4. fair call Shan dunno what teh flares look like so cant really guess at how it would blend in.
  5. thats not very Epic Shan.. go the whole hog .. no point spending the cash for a ful spray and leave that little bit bugging you forever.
  6. there are a couple of threads for cheap fixes to coil packs as it revs you increase the air into the motor and the fuel - the need for a stronger spark is now, hence the gremlin coming out.
  7. if you only want the lip done, take it to a place that repairs rims, they could just machine the lip then you can polish it yourself. $80 a rim is normally to fix dents and repair - OR - change colour of the rim completely
  8. mine does this from the old Handbrake connection from a turbo timer - the handbrake switch is an earth switch, so if there is a line off the handbrake switch to a turbo timer(or left over wire) it could be earthing on the tunnel.
  9. Craved

    Ic Bead Roller

    getting into a couple of grand for ones for 1.6mm
  10. you put leaded petrol in your car? AV gas is leaded thats a bad idea considering you havea catalytic covertor
  11. standard ecu has a air flow limit - std turbo its up to 16 psi so it really depends on the ECU your running, and turbo your using as its related to air mass flow not boost level.
  12. hmmm do they still make water exit into the exhuast system? might be a newer design as the older boats i've worked on just had water entering the exhaust pipe after going through the motor and the waters shot out the exhaust pipe in the rear of the boat.
  13. if they are truly alluminium then any Tig welder would be able to weld them up - be damn tricky with 0.6-0.9 alluminium file it back then prep for paint.
  14. boats pull in river water which is cold, unless you have a heat exchanger system they use the exhaust gas temps to heat the water so your not running cold water through a hot block - stops them cracking.
  15. most boats run water around the exhaust to heat the water up for the motor, not to cool the exhaust you want the heat in the exhaust gas to increase the gas velocity due to maximum expansion of the gas. same theory as HPC style coatings keeping the heat in, and helping spool times.
  16. east bear ones have these
  17. sorry but there isnt! unless you know someone with one, there is no other way to get a reading. Blocked return line would normally cause a ramped effect with the AFR's since at idle the std earthing reduces the voltage at the pump to slow down flow - so it would get worse as it revs up.
  18. ask a mechanic to test it if you dont want to buy a guage
  19. yep and his sig says "ask me how"
  20. lol thanks sasha
  21. arrrggg my head cheers all, now i guess i better get some work done no rest for the wicked they say
  22. i thought 6 boosts manifold ran dual outlets off the 2 sides of the collector - that is strange
  23. if the gas isnt being bypassed through the gate due to a flow blockage after teh gate - then this can cause the boost to creep - hence the suggestion to remove the exhaust what boost controller you using? how many vacuum lines to the gate?
  24. so boost is dropping off below the .9bar ? or do you mean the other way around and boost is increasing?
  25. As im using the rb25 gasket i'll prob be doing to the opposite of what spoolup has shown
×
×
  • Create New...