Craved

Nice work, Trueflame styles which candies and metalics did you use?

PM sent just incase

i'd probably manually form the 6" pipe part - as its probably difficult/expensive to buy (especially that small quantity) - Cheers for the info though Did you powdercoat or paint the black pieces - fuel rail, cas bracket, inlet cam gear, strut brace mounts?

haha - fair enough you need to keep some things to yourself. i just wish your logo wasnt so complex i've gotta try and powdercoat around it next week sometime

Looks good Al Love the heat sheild on the turbine housing - hope you dont mind but im going to copy that hahahah

Millenium jade is always a safe bet for a hot RB26 looks nice

nice work .. wanna post it up to help anyone else that may have this little difficulty ??

didnt think of that last time i tried that the damn nut distorted and was useless lol

still lots of thinking involved to replicate your work, but most who have the means to make this could work that out from scratch anyway. inspirational though.

Ariel, Very nice work, uncommon for people to show the details of their work off for something like this, gives us tinkering bunch something to aim for in our own work.

seen this calculator before - would be very handy i went out and bought a pipe notcher for a pedistal drill but this is cheaper haha

test each wire with a multimetre the 2 missing will be the ones for the fold in option. so you should be able to turn on that function and see which wires are active. unfortunately the manuals for r33's dont include the wiring diagrams for the entire car.

Here are some pics of powdercoated calipers from coaters based in the USA - these are custom coaters and not industrial coaters first 2 pics are brembo calipers or look here at the stuff you can do with calipers http://thepowdercoater.com/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=2 Alluminium coats as well as any other steel so if they are prepped properly and not just coated as they are you can have great reults with great durability. PT - post up some pics once you get them done

pistons and lips for the dust boots cannot be coated nor inside of the cylinder. Mating face for the 2 halves of the caliper - if skyline like calipers canot be coated bolt holes and threaded sections. --------------------- hope they sand blast them before coating atleast - less likely to hold the coating if thats not done.

i have seen LOTS of powdercoated calipers, from bikes to new corvettes. havent heard of them coing back with any problems after track work. will be coating my own soon, trying to find a spare set of front calipers to rebuild and coat so i can swap out the whole lot in one go.

wow $10 a caliper for powdercoat- i would do that then - what colours they offering for that price. they are leaving the prep up to you? Yep 170-230 degree's C for curing powdercoat. i have the gold VHT and clear coat on mine - no discolouring or fading - clear coat keeps them glossy when cleaned. Metalcast looks great, but the red will go orange in the heat - not sure on the blue

yeah you could weld on a female adapter to screw a brass fitting into something like this - im sure that an earls/speedflow distributer should have these type things in melbourne - or try pirtek etc to see if they have it- then just mig it on. http://www.mscn.com.au/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=404

havent seen any places selling mild steel barbs, you might be able to braze on a std brass fitting. TIP - stainless can be welded to mild steel incase you can find some SS barbs

if your only after cosmetic mods - look around this section then head to the photography section and look at the r33 photo thread for inspiration.

do a google search on colour sanding - should find some DIY and how to's but yes you can cut back the clear coat, then polish the scratches out.. looking at up near 2000 grit paper before polishing

nope - you could try a local painter - but its bound to be more expensive heres the apple red flake from paint with pearl mixed in clear Powdercoat - definately need to clear over it and block if used in paint - where as the powdercoat is thicker and more self leveling.

as long as you put the rubber seal that contains the spacers back on there is no issues, you might want to get the timing checked afterwards though (timing light or a mechanic) just get it as close to the same spot as you can to drive it to a shop.

-10 AN fittings should work, 22mm should be the ID of the GTR hoses : -10 thread size is 22mm

cheers Gary i have dismantled a spare set of rear calipers and that last 10mm or so was definatley more resistant than the used area.

Richard, If you can show me who has a full set of 4 rebuild kits (front and rear) for $100 i'll be happy as lizard in the sun lol, from what i have read in my searches prior to making this thread $150 -$160 for all 4 seems the going rate. Gary, Cheers, thats something i hadnt considered with the sludge build up, but couldnt a strip down and a wash out with water then drying help clean out the sludge without the need to rebuild? or is there more im not understanding? i guess unless you split them there is no wa the guarantee they are clean inside. Still for $160 its cheaper than a front set of RB74's so its not too bad a preventative as Richard said. Roy, Mate, thats what i was thinkiing of with the uneven wear comment - pad drag - which is somethign i believe i have with theleading edge of the pads always getting worn first - which can be misleading cos if you just look through the wheel to check the pad life, you never look from the bottom. As for piss easy, i certainly looks like it and i'll definately be doing this myself. Just looking for helpful information on the WHY of it instead of the how much every other thread about rebuilds was about Cheers guys, and further reasons its a good idea post em up