Craved

lol from a quick lip rolling to " widebody full kit" i have a car that had its guards rolled about 8 years ago now, no cracking, and they are not rusting

check the power at your dimmer switch - if the compliancers put it in - if none then trace the wires to find the short

Sounds like air pockets to me also - exactly what my guage (autometer) was doing when i split the rear turbo water feed hose meanwhile the factory guage was reading normal - cos they are crap bleed the system again just to be sure

this looks like a good deal - no idea on job quality or guarantee http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...howtopic=235344 just google guard rolling melbourne - found heaps of hits

best thing i have seen is high concentrate truck wash as used on everyones dirt bike i know - spray on with high concentrated water/wash mix .. let it sit, then hose off. alot of other suggestions have been for cleaning the inside of the cooler- but if you aint already taking the cooler out, try some C16 truckwash first.

wiring diagrams for MFD http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Wi...ms-t115675.html more here http://www.hkskylineclub.com/new/forum_pos...3160&KW=MFD from the links within links on my previous post... its all there - up to you to modify that to fit your cars wiring. even to modifications required to input video into the unit is in the HKskylineclub link. as for the menu system - unfortunately the links to the MFD manuals are not working anylonger.

so thats all bolt in? is it now a 2 seater? which state are you in? do you have any details on what was required eg . distance from head to bars, mounting point specs etc that you can share?

rb25 sump will not fit the rb26 - hence the need for adapter plates for the 4wd rb26 sumps on the rb30. either build a custom one, or have the rb26 sump modified to remove the front diff and welded up. i believe the belts and spacing on the accessory pumps are different from rb25 and rb26

i only blast with Garnet (sand) so it wasnt contaminated (no black spots like you would get with the steel from another file) it affected the way the base alloy would melt, just seemed to take longer which meant that the weld ons where at the point of melting where the base wasnt. hard to explain since i havent done any formal training in welding.

is there a particular reason you're not being helpful?

thats the factory option "AERO" kit

well if it drains back to the tank, it might take a couple of primes of the pump to re-fill the lines

does your pump have an anti drain back valve?

road legal was what i was heading too as for accredited - that would depend on the race series/cams event etc

you will definately need to call your local RTA office and discuss the requirements for a bolt in cage, it may not be legal at all, even with it a bolt in. you will need to get it engineered as well, so maybe call a local engineer to find out what they need to pass to give you a blue slip for it.

Weld in or bolt in? cant get any info from the cage supplier? wanting it to be legal/accredited?

to be honest i dont know the thicknesses of the filler only got 2 sizes available to me, so i used thin - maybe 1.2mm for the walls and thick -2ish mm - for the fittings. Turns out that sandblasting the part does some funky stuff when you try to weld over it, wasnt working well with the thinner filler today.

Unique Auto Sports -http://www.nismo.com.au used to sell them

hahah used to be "so i got a new camera" ?? yes? bringing back the essence of zee thread

lol waits for sam to be angry posting in his thread

Well today i got the fittings for the can lathed up some blocks for the mount points and tapped them - and welded it all up and powdercoated it

thats exactly what i meant, and that news wasnt what i was hoping for