Craved

last pic, rocker cover still connected to the intake pipe. lets it draw air from the filter on the catch can, plus would let oil mist go that way as that would be the easiest path for it - rather than going through the catch can first

yep thats right Charlie. 1 in - 1 out and the drain. The Rips style would be a little messy to plumb back, but not impossible Edit : that R33 pictured is setup wrong all together - kinda defeating the purpose

Duncan its 1.5mm most of my other work has been with 2.5mm but thats a little overkill - welds nicer though

try somthing like this http://www.mscn.com.au/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=496

AHAH!!! the hardest part of it was seperating the 2 parts, now on theirs they make 2 cans and then weld them together .. that should make it easier, just uses more material. Cheers for that JAR

sold

haha soon soon, i havent touched a welder in a few months, since the one i was using went back to its owner this particular catch can has given me some ideas on the internal workings of the washer bottle catch can in one. so hopefully i can get one of those working soon.

if the cast is of a good quality there shouldnt be many air holes in it, so yes, you can sand and sand and sand then polish the rims. example of cast alloy that gets polished often = Cam covers

post up some pic here - you can attach the photos using the more options button below teh fast post.

Hiya, Catch can i fabbed today. 3 inch tube split in 2 halves, then adding 80mm flat section to expand the volume and allow for weld on fittings for the hoses. Has a hole in the base to allow for drain back into the sump. Has internal baffle to for oil mist to collect on inner baffle, didnt use the metal scourer stuff in the stocking as the oil drains back into the sump so if anything would happen to the stocking or scourer it would end up in the sump.. here are a few pics of it so far, its blasted ready for the powdercoating yet to do : Weld on fittings for breather lines and drain back Powder coat it

unfortunately not mate got a long weekend this weekend, i'll see what i can do.

just set it back to close to where it is at the moment, then get the timming reset by a mechanic to 15btdc for manual and 20btdc for auto its only 3 bolts so not too tricky.

he already said he grinded it.........

as SEARCHED http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/He...move+rear+seats

neither are good grinding will make the paint flake, bending by multigrips will also make it look like crap. heating the panel up with a heat gun and gently massaging with a rubber mallet is better than multigrips if you must do it yourself. best option in this thread was from user "J'z-R33" - get someone to roll them properly

CAS is simply 3 bolts remove the cas then pull the rubber seal that contains the spacers off the front cover. this way everything is prepped and painted. when bolting it all up, just get it as close as possible to where it was prior to removal, then have it tuned up with a timing light to 15 BTDC. there is no way to mark the position prior to paint since the paint covers any marks you make.

alot of outlay for equipment then learning, im setting this up as a weekend business for extra cash, this isnt something that you can pick up and do, theres some specialised guns and powders etc that you need. if you just wanna do your covers then doing it yourself isnt cost effective here's some more pics of my work - from http://www.cravedcoatings.com

i cant see it causing too much drama, since oil will hardly ever slosh straight up but if you can weld the hole up, i would to be double sure.

The best way to remove these breathers is the put them (the breathers) in a vice, upside down, then hit upwards with a rubber mallet.

Heres a little sneek peek at a crazy conversion i am helping out with. The Red is a Candy Red powdercoat and the rocker covers are a wrinkle black powdercoat. I coated these myself here at home.

the obrien website is pretty crap to be honest basically you can use a std generic h type seal to replace the screens seals not an easy job to remove a windscreen though, but if you are paying a company to do it, ask them about generic seals or get in contact with a nissan dealership

run a test piece first, you will need to see how much effect the gold has over the red, it looks like a translucent gold so it shouldnt me too over powering of the red, just have to get the fade to be neat with the red as the main concern

silver base then put the red down on the half with it fading back, then do the rest in the gold just watch the metal cast red, it goes orangish on the engine covers after a few weeks

bottom corner being underneath of it? you can fill a scratch with a clear gelcoat or more resin i believe, and re fibreglass the underneath if that is where the crack is.

Ash is right, any panel shop can paint this for you. if you are only talking about the plenum and the front cam gear cover then it shouldnt cost that much. or you could use a high temp black spray paint, they are usually in a matt finish. if you are in sydney and have considered powdercoating, send me a PM and i can help you out with that.