Craved

i would weld on a threaded fitting, you can buy them off ebay easy enough, just not always the cheapest option. Stainless threaded fitting for stainless and mild steel pipe. alloy for alloy pipe or if its mild steel or stainless you could get the brass fittings brazed onto the pipe. Lots of options

whatever you end up doing, make sure it is shrouded. Perhaps a square top pyramid .. if that makes sense- about 50-60mm tall, then cut out the 2 holes for the exact flush fit with the fans, then mount the shroud to teh radiator and seal it.

dont believe him, he never pays up with his chuppa chups so you want it mounted behind the glove box ??? there is room under the dash there, and you will be able to mount it on the reo bar that links the 2 a pillars together and supports the dash and steering column. pulls the glove box out and have a look in there, make sure it will fit, then you'll need to make up a "box" to hold the ecu unit, then a tube attachement to mount that to the bar.

14411-21U05 for the turbo i believe - but thats the actual turbo - not a rebuild kit

its stocky, but he is feeding the turbo into the charger

also rb26 seals and gasket wont work for you either as said, many people running that power with a std motor

get a compression test done instead of changing the oil (unless it needs doing anyway)

just check them all - find the plate later also look around Paulr33's website - very informative http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com

try cleaning the retractor unit, but to do that you need to get into the rear panel beside the rear seat.

yeah, no chance of goo working there either have a replacement machined up on a lathe OR buy a new one from tial USA - or try Slide as he got my tial from japan and might be able to get the individual part

does the wastegate have the seat area machined out ??? as you can see the samll ring that inserts into the flange area between the gate and the manifold .. is this the bit you are missing? try to speak with tial USA and see if can get that part seperate from them. as that ring seals the valve to the sides so it doesnt leak

yes you do need to remove that facia

that reminds me of a exhaust add in i saw for sale somewhere. They ran an actuator that controlled a throttle type valve that opened on boost pressure releasing the exhaust gas out a bypass exhaust pipe. think of a wastegate actuator that opens a trottle body instead of a cable perhaps trying to run 2 of these, or one via boost pressure and one via electric motor that shuts off along with the supercharger. but dont forget that even sequential turbo systems have a hole in the tune between the 2 turbos transition point. Atleast running the turbo through the supercharger should allow for more linier power

he might be saying that the earthing "kit" isnt connected to the battery which isnt really a problem as long as it connected to the Chassis somewhere.

less than 2 weeks old http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/t188979.html

More than likely this is due to the age of the paint, try a cut a polish to bring back the whiteness of your original paint. but remember that it was out of a spray can

Magman Workshop For Wheels Update your details 2/ 21 Moxom Rd, Punchbowl, NSW 2196 p: (02) 9709 2686

try the "Polishes/wax " sticky thread right at the top of this section ......

ok so here is what i would do if i was to keep that piping design. Remove the pipe, weld in a patch panel of 0.9mm body steel, from the underside of the chassis. Then make a new hole for the piping around 3.5" and slightly forward as it seems to be rubbing on the front section. test fit to make sure all is smooth and no fouling. Then, i would paint both sides of the patch with an etch primer then some chassis black paint. get some cardboard and trace out a piece that will cover the battery tray right the way under the guard mount, all the way to the wheel well and back to the chassis rail towards the centre of the car. Use that piece to cut out a Flat sheet of 2mm polished alloy so you can cover the entire area. mount that with screws into teh old tray. then you can cut a matching hole in that from underneath to match the bottom hole. use that alloy sheet to remount those wires, install a catch can, radiator over flow.... etc etc etc ------------------------------------ If you want it done as cheap as possible, you could follow the above, then cut out your patch panel and the patch, needs to me no more than 1mm gap all around, then just take it somewhere to get tig welded up, might cost you $50 to weld it depending on how good your cutting and patch is.

Well if Guilt-Toy can engineer his, then if your ready to finish your cars mods, then engineering it for legalities is a good thing, and something I plan on doing. Atleast in NSW the emmissions are based on your cars manufacturing year, not the motor, also this new motor size is governed by Forced or N/A plus litrage Vs Car weight.

they have some handy stuff that they sell. and im guessing you are saying the bead rollers are $300 each to buy ?