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Craved

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Everything posted by Craved

  1. pretty sure they are all the same except for r34 GTT
  2. pretty sure the bar on the 33 is the tommy kaira bar for the S2 And throw a gold/orange pearl over that orange and it would look better
  3. what brand are you thinking of? im sure the nismo ones would have a direct fit one.
  4. i wouldnt use sikaflex as it gets soft when heated, thats why heat guns are used to help remove rear lights, undo headlight assemblies etc jb weld would be the best stuff, but you can only get it off ebay in AUS - there is from memory some guys down in melbourne that sell it
  5. try to look for a Satin clear coat, than is smooth just not glossy, allows normal cleaning and paint protection without the gloss
  6. which seatbelt are you talking about? std z32 filter will work - or ask for a the aus model 300zx turbo filter as to your fuela dn neutral issue A) sounds like atmo BOV causing overfueling OR B) dirty AAC valve
  7. if you are only "pretty sure" you connected the wirtes up, then i would be checking as the first step
  8. the bolt head is similar to a Torx bit, where its bolt head is star shaped like the below pic only more points. so i would need a socket to go onto that design.
  9. I'll get Sl!m to post pics of his airbox in here. As for shorter piping from the pod to the turbo - this is not going to affect the response of the motor.
  10. Well legally tany hole cut in that area must be reinforced to return the rigidity back to that section of the car, so if you are willing to have someone weld in a reinforcement plate that has a clean hole in it then you are also less likely to encounter any stife from it if one day you go to engineer the car.
  11. If you are unclear as what is "recommended" please see the link from Page 2 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...st&id=38818 PDF shows each motor and oil pumps
  12. just curious as to the difficulty of it, my Works use a bolt head that i havent seen as a bolt head before.
  13. anyone actually pulled apart a 2 or 3 piece rim ??
  14. so its just some welded stainless tube that connects to the fittings at each end with silicon hose ... are you going to make them? need help in making them? wondering how someone would make them ?
  15. people also run without the front covers on , no reported problems that i have seen
  16. actually FORD ran a Black BA falcon GT in some special model with Black with Gold stripes. Looked really good, was on the cover of.. Motor magazine i think
  17. doing just centre would cost you more, since there is more work involved in masking up the lips, then blasting then remasking them for the application of powder simon-r32 - looks good mate
  18. dash out is probably less fiddly than trying to leave it in. bypass the heaters lines within the engine bay by linking them together with some copper pipe, then buy yourself a new core. Then do a search in the Gen Maintenance section and DIY section for a guide on how to replace the core.
  19. yep looks correct to me, V bands are more prone to leaking though havent ever tried it but you could get a high temp sealer on that bead if your worried, gets used on 3 and 4 bolts exhaust flanges all the time
  20. just looks like you have been supplied a flange that you would use if you bought just the turbo and not the seperate dump pipe aswell.
  21. sand blast or sand paper the centres, etch primer then paint. or get them powdercoated for a more resistant finish but thats usually 50-70 a rim
  22. you will need to check the base circle on the cams too, you may need to shim the cam retainers. if you look here you can remove the key section from a CAS, havent seen the key section of an r34 CAS but im pretty sure it would have a similar design above pic from here - http://users.tpg.com.au/cobra30/twincam.htm
  23. Yep powdercoating is alot better, but not everyone has access to this type of process.
  24. just think of it as a hose clamp, just make sure the clamp is over both sides of the flanges lips
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