Craved

repair kit from Bunnnings (or similar hardware store) there was a thread about this not long ago actually. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/t186008.html

Please try the range of "pics of your XX skyline" in the photography section of the forum, all the pics you could probably need

if you can remove your front bar yourself, you can change the lights over.

HAHAH ive done that before Dash lights are all on when cranking? you can also try the carbie cleaner trick in the TB then crank, if it coughs like it wants to start, then you have no fuel and do have spark.

to get clean even vents/slots you would need to have the material milled or water cut to be consistent. alternatively you could drill holes then cut them out and spend alot of time manually filing the holes down to be even. pretty sure you would need a bend on either side of the valley cover to make the bolting surface flush with the cam covers. check out your local hotrod shop (if there is one near you) they may have a louvre die that can press out some old shool vent louvres to let the hot air out.

s1 or s2 r33?

pretty sure the std hose size is 2.25 inch you wont be able to use the 3"

sounds like the water pump bearings check under the pump behind the pulley, there is a small hole there, if from there you need to replace your pump

they arent smoked front indicators, they are trailer reversing lights with painted globes. been looking into alternatives for them anyway as i want to use those spots for brake ducting

so the bulbs elements are intact? could be just blown globes

Perfect news Michael, cheers mate

heya, yep been busy building a new shed and a couple other projects, i'll be trialling a washer/catch can replacement shortly once the building is complete (hopefully tomorrow) once i get the first one done here , i'll be getting the templates cut out by a mate with access to a programmable guillotine.

neither of mine work -actually the speedo works ,but only after giving the car heaps . like at a track day ... anyideas PFC reads 0kmh Dash reads 0kmh

Anyone welded on fittings for the breathers on the cam covers? just wondering if there wil be any clearance issues with a 90 degree speedflow fitting off the cover EDIT -- this is for rb25det and rb25de/rb20 covers

tried a wreckers? i have replaced mine before perhaps them shipping it to you will still be cheaper than nissan

and that makes sense, unless the non turbo dont have a cold start feature (unlikely) they still read from the radiator... awesome work and not knocking it, just trying to identify something that will cause your car to not run right if the cold start sensor isnt getting a reading then the car will always be in cold start "mode" check your std radiator, there should be a std bung in it that is connected to the ecu, granted you require the additional one to control the thermo fans.

from the pic it could be that he believes that half the base of the filler is missing ... half moon shape .. but thats normal i believe

yes but the temp bung in the radiator for the R32 is only used for cold start as far as i know, so putting it up top will affect the ECU's temp reading for the cold start. also using a honda one over the std one seems like it would cause issues with the readings via voltage per degrees. as you say its for your 32 i would think to mimik the OEM setup but make it cross flow and thicker for higher thermal transfer efficiency.

Also - what guage sheet alloy are you using for the tanks and top/bottom braces?

question regarding the core, are these custom cores? or OEM ones from something else? i have been involved in making up a custom radiator for a AE86 using a commodore core running in a twin pass like you have used. Soon to be redone for use in the AE86 running a 1jz, looking for thick cores for as cheap as possible. Also, isnt the temp sender bung on the bottom of the core std? any reason you put it under the top hose?

thats would still be a defect in NSW its in the crash zone

see post #63 in the oil thread - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...10680&st=40 has pics of where to place the restrictors.

there is also coolant going into and from the throttle body - easy to check from the top

Des5001 - thats the water outlet pipe from behind the thermostat housing they are a push in style fitting (like the cam cover ventilation pipes) if this has rusted out, you will need to replace the fitting. They are very similar to the rb30 water outlets except the rb25 ones have the outward facing smaller hose , where the rb30 goes straight up. you "might" be able to push it out by only removing the thermostat, then hammer in the new one .. will be tricky fiddly work though.' pic attached shows the fitting without the stuff around it.