Craved

if the 32 GTR seats are complete with rails, it should just be a matter of bolting them straight in.

i would suggest fibreglassing the wing to the bootlid, nearly zero chance of cracking, if worried you could have some re-infrocement welded to the underside of the boot lid to increase the rigidity which will reduce any movement that could cause cracking.

powdercoating can be applied as thin or as thick (up to about 3mm) as you like. the thinner the coating the rougher the finish it, but on a satin finished intercooler you could get away with a lighter coating.

just jap decat pipe - if they still have them

buy another boot lid paint it with the GTR wing - as im sure its not a candy red already then you have both, for what ever you feel like at teh time

welcome to SAU. this topic has been discussed alot, try running a search in this section by using the search feature in the top menu bar.

you could JB weld on the mount for the std blinker globe into the parker housings, then run both the blinker and the parker in that area to pass RWC/pink slip as you need both to pass. or for $100 you could wire in a resister pack and led strip to mount in the holes from the std blinkers.. lots of options

there are quick release plugs out there ie : http://www.uniquetruck.com/products/index....mp;productid=51 dunno about locally in Aus

also are you 100% the pump isnt using another as a lift pump direct into the VL pump? VL pumps DO NOT like running dry at all, had 3 fail in a sprinter (ca18det) due to the surge of the std tank - fixed by welding in a small collector tank area in the bottom of the tank.

from memory the VL turbo pumps need to be fed into (be at the bottom of the tank with a gravity feed into them) which means that they cannot suck fuel out of the tank. to do that on the 32 you would need to modify the tank to have an outlet at the bottom to gravity feed into the pump. how is it setup in the dr30 ?

can you buy the r33 cog seperate still? is it part no. 32743 - 30P20 ??

Anthony Needeep Designs Mobile: 0410 763 341 E-Mail: [email protected] Services: Spraypaint and Air brushing, Murals, signwritting, stickers supply measurements, colour, and pics of the exact stickers you want.. and have a chat to Anthony

sounds like its just changing the sounds when the gates open, which is normal -- if you dont like it then what your doing is exactly what you need to do - put a resonator in.

does this sound correspond with the point of full boost or slightly prior to that? could be the change of sounds found when teh exhaust gas leaves via the wastegate ports and is no longer modified by passing through the turbine wheels.

Yep i understand that completely - HA are height and damper adj. never had as much trouble shifting weight than with these things, but i had tannabe's in prior to these that were just as bad or worse. been tossing up between the new super streets from Tein or the shocks and springs in the SK package.. cant decide (need new strut tops either way and the SK package dont supply them )

TEIN HR are the height adjustable setup from a few years back - Jap spec run about 12kg springs im running the HA with the damper adjust - super stiff with that range springs ... too stiff but still usable

turbo water lines run from the rear of the plenum - through behind the head and into the turbo- then back to the block on the exhaust side. You can connect your water feed from the line on the back of the plenum (1 inch then 90 degree bend- currently rubber to connect to the rear hardline), or by cutting the steel line after it comes around the back of the head and double hose clamping it on. really comes down to what type of line your using, as braid will more than likely not bend enough to connect direct to the plenum.

skyline tail lights are sealed usiong Sikaflex .. there has been a couple fo threads about this, even one with a DIY with pics on how to remove lights and reseal and put back in.. here ya go http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=126649

just thinking about doing that is hard lol what filler would you use thats thin enough to melt before you blow a hole in the can?

Like i said in my sms Doodz, the alternator will more than likely be rebuildable .. if you find one cheap then buy that and replace it, either way the old ones gotta come out. try another battery if you have it, then read the voltage at the battery, if lesds than 13.5 volts then it confirms your alternator is kaput.

Worked on my washer bottle with thesand paper and removed most of the marks for the bender. this was working through 4 steps of paper - 400 -600 -800 -1200 then moved onto using the bench grinder and some tripoli on a stitched buff wheel. then used the white rouge and the loose leaf wheel ... and its was still hazy and not polished Went and bought some meguirs NXT metal polish and wow that stuff works well ... alot more work than using the grinder but really gave more shine on the areas that i did do with the paper then the grinder. tried it on an area that i didnt sand or use the bench grinder and while it made it shiny it still held residual grain that was present in the alloy.

re-reading my old thread there. I got the 3040 to 294 rwkw on 18psi through a 38mm gate so 40mm gate will be fine for your required power. as for the spring requirements... that is dependant on the boost level you want to run as minimum , keeping it as close to the require boost level if you are using an EBC . ie use a 1.2Bar spring for 18 - 22 psi ... 1bar for 14 - 20 psi - keeping in mind that the further from teh spring rate you go the more possiblity for the ebc to have trouble maintaining constant boost levels.

all the thermostats and remote filter blocks i have seen have arrows indication the in and out. if your dont have these you might be in for some difficulty.

for weld ones, speak to people like motorsport connections in seven hills nsw

use the std push on "toothed washer" that holds the std one on .. you need to punch holes in the right spots to be able to use them