Craved

ust this as an idea on making a 4 post http://www.cefabshop.com/custom_order_04.asp most main hoops are across the c pillar MAIN thing is to ensure Triangulation to all points for strength.

hahahahah i wish nah i do this at home .. i work in IT doing night shifts - this is a hobby

Seamless mild steel piping. chrome moly if you have the cash and need to save weight. If this car is for any official race meetings then you will need to look at the spec sheets required for that level of racing.

keep in mind having a custom engine mount fabricated to make use of the std mount but maintain the motors current positon if you get stuck that is

Drill a hole in your can and pressurise it through that --- and use an empty can

shouldnt need to fill it if its the 10mm bolt left of centre on top row .. similar to the N1 pump so its a multifit ... as long as the rest is sealed well, just putting the bolt in should not cause any leaking

Well i spent a couple of hours on saturday making up an alloy washer bottle for the 33. Aftertaking measurements from the std washer bottle i made up some templates and had a crack at making a washer bottle to fit the std r33 location. with this one i didnt take pics as i went along, but i will with the next one i make up as i made a couple of mistakes on this one and im a little bit of a perfectionist when it comes to things like this. Technically this is stage 2 of making a washer bottle as i made one up last weekend to mimic the design of the standard bottle but this new one has alot smoother lines and will look nicer in the engine bay. Firstly i cut up the 2 side pieces (table saw with a wood blade as alloy blade is on order) in lengths that would enable me to bend up a U shape and the second piece with a slight bend, the bends i made up with my hafco panbrake that i recently purchased. Tacked those 2 pieces together then traced out the top and bottom pieces from the tacked side with approx 1.5mm inset to allow for the weld. cut the top pieces out on the band saw. then welded up a few sides to ensure the regidity of the piece. Marked out the pump holes and then used a hole saw to cut out the holes, this was required at this stage to allow for air expansion inside the piece as i welded. Welded up the rest of the sides, still need to setup a jig for the mounting brackets then weld on the Filler cap. here are a couple of pics from Saturdays effort. This shows the bottom of the bottle with the holes for the pumps.

Unless your car is blowing a large amount of oil my suggestion would be to plug that lower hole. just run it as a std catch can(with the wool inserted) and drain it from that plug if it starts to fill up

have a look in the Forced induction RB25 results thread for ideas on how to get that power. e manage for auto at that price sounds good r33 2 dr manual with 250rwkw on streets can run 12.5ish

you could try plastic welding it ... with a soldering iron

i've tried to think of ways to make the Y collectors but even after looking at pics of one like below, still a bit hard to work out the angle and cut needed to bring them together and get the single pipe to match perfect.

have a look in here and see if they have any updates http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...&hl=tie+rod

there you are lol

yes you can run both at once.. member here made a twin charged rb25/30 in a VL --- look in the rb30 sticky for pics and details

catch can or Oil/Air seperators are good for removing oil vapour from your intake which can increase the possibility for detonation. That is what they do .. if you have the money for one, they will not hurt your motor providing there is sufficient flow to release the pressure in the head and crankcase (ie dont go with the cheap ones with small hoses and fittings) whether to get one is up to you and your wallet, not your boost level.

pretty sure there was a thread regarding this in the suspension sub forum

should be able to, i have seen some pretty bad dents repaired using their methods .. and that panel is easy to access as well.

Bass Junky, Are you able to put up some information that will help out the other members if they were to try and create something like this for themselves? Afterall this is a fabrication section ... any specific problems encountered that someone would face doing this themselves?

try a paintless dent removal company, will m ore than likely be cheaper

+1 which is similar to the vertex kit on all nissans lol looks good to me though

there was a huge thread about this on r33's leaking through the sealant on the overlap of panels above the tail lights, dont doubt that the 34's would be affected by the same thing.

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if the gas struts are too strong then you will crack your bonnet when trying to close it (fibreglass and carbon bonnets only)

"Nulon Red Long Life Coolant is not recommended for use in cooling systems that have a copper/brass radiator (in such vehicles, use Nulon LL, which is green)" quote from the RED products details... however i am unsure what material the std radiator is made from.

its where you fill the car up with petrol ........