Craved

bottom panel first yep, just pull on the panels as close to the clips as possible screw should be obvious behind the seat belt as it passes through the panel

gets a bit tricky as the front seat belts go through the side rear trims. there is a screw in the small pocket where the belt runs through the panel, thats the only one per side - so unbolt that screw and the main bolts for the upper belt and then just pop the clips on the panel like you would on the door trims

damn you beat me cos i was typing slow lol can you get someone to draw it up in CAD? mates shop CNC plasma cuts 20mm plate you could create a JIG from with some bracing.

might be a bit tricky welding the sump pan on with your arms through the bores welds normally need to be done on the inside so you dont foul the bolt heads, other problem i think that would cause is the heat sink the block would create making getting the block and plate up on temp before you start welding essential

cheers for that info, 12mm sheet wont be cheap lol you could look into alloy mig welding on the flange as it generates less heat, looks like ass compared to TIG but it works

love the sump Michael, always thought it would be good to make an alloy one for the rb25in my car and seems to be fairly straight forward looks like 10mm plate for the flange? would 6mm work alright you think or not have enough room to have it surfaced after welding?

this thread needs updates lol hope you are working hard this long weekend

all good, AFAIK he hasnt contacted me for work anyway - im happy to help out where i can regardless where he goes in the end. Yeah i can do wrinkle black plus other colours. I forgot about the base coat for the metal cast lol - yeah was just talking about the candy top coat straight over the blue

Cheers Mingy had to steal the Nismo indicators for the daily 33 - so I'll need to order some more from the UK

maybe i shouldnt, but ima leave this here

i've done top feed rails before, just plug them for blasting and coating and it wont get inside the machined fittings. perhaps ask 34geeteetee for some better pics of his rail. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=342957 red metalcast over blue would go purple lol

Cheers Richard, I'm surprised no one else has done it. Car is idling normally now, so that's awesome. It was another thing that's been annoying me for years. cleaned the AAC a few times but never looked into the IAC.

figured out the idle finally lol ran through the DIY's for AAC and IAC cleaning, scrubbing them both out. turns out the spring in the IAC (under plenum) that tensions the plate was in 2 pieces swap it out with a GTR one i had for the new motor and it seems to be fixed. cold start idle is 1200, but cant let it warm up until the sealant dries.

GTR indicators are direct fit http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Skyline-R33-GTR-Clear-Front-Indicator-Set-Gen-Nissan-/170571529109?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item27b6dafb95 cheapest i have found - they sell for that each in Aus got mine in in about 1.5 weeks

no problem Andrew

yeah - series 3 GTR had a bigger vent hole thats awesome, thanks heaps woohoo $65 for the pair ex melb

thanks matt, always looking for spots to use the dies... gotta make the most of the $400 i spent on them lol

3 stone hone will take alot more of the bore out ball hone is just to de-glaze the bore or to remove surface rust if oil ran away from one bit

Got another one, bit no VIN for a GTR looking for the part numbers of the plastic surrounds for the front blinkers - the mesh ones apparently can be bought separately so im keen to price them up. owen, any chance of a DVD copy of fast installer?

no worries thats exactly why i did it more work to start with, but HEAPS less when you need to use them could use the same principal for the hand controller on a PFC, PaulR33's website shows that its almost a regular ps2 port for the HC

While coating things i've been multitasking on the next stage of finishing off the interior. started with these things from ebay - 1A USB mini chargers stripped them apart, and removed the +ve springs from the ends of the circuit boards - trusty wiring tools there that makes this stuff so much easier Soldered +ve and -ve wires onto the circuit board for the new power feeds all finished Now to mount them - cut out the 20mm holes and used my dimple dies to make a nice surround for the charger heads Glued in place with JB weld This is how it will sort of look once the JB Weld dries - obviously i'll have them level wait 24 hours then i'll start prepping for paint.

got the PLX wideband mounted

should be fine Adam - as long as you have the air pressure for it there is a tool out there, but i cant find the name - its has a 3/4 inch fitting for a socket with a small arm attached to a swivelling long arm you hit the long arm with it setup like an L so the down force from the hammer blow cracks the nut. if i find it i'll post up

Matt - have a read of this http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Venturi_effect

so im a bit out of action atm, got a bunch of stitches on my shoulder blade so its making work a little tough atm. so spent some time wiring today, couple of trips to jaycar were on the books since i can never get everything i need in one trip when i go there lol so i started with this as per Duncan's link above and made a couple of spacers to set it more flush in the thin dash plastic. Then i cut a 20mm hole in the dash, and used a file to take out another 0.5mm right around it so it was a tight fit Installed the female USB plug into the lower dash panel and tightened it up I then made my own male to male USB cable that wasnt too long like most are, with like 1.8m being the shortest i saw off the shelf - using some cheap $1.50 p/m 6 core computer cable and the $1.25 or so USB ends i then needed a female plug for the end of the com to usb convertor that comes with the datalogit all soldered up and heat shrunk - the cable needed to be soldered to the motherboard fitting on the end of the panel mounted female unit - i could have just cut the plug off but this was easier than dealing with the really thing wire these use. now to fit the datalogit in this area i had to remove the top of the box to allow clearance to the "entry system" box thats mounted in that area of the dash the PLX SM-AFR unit was double sided taped to the inside of the dash next to the entry system box and the cables run neatly across to the steering column where the guage will be mounted. units installed, tested and ready to go, easy enough to undo the glovebox once i decide to hook up the wideband to the datalogit and most likely to the NB 02 sensor input on the new engine to replace the dual inputs of the rb26 loom. pivot 52mm guage mount arrived in the mail today so can get the wideband guage mounted ready for some light load tuning. USB power supplies didnt arrive so they'll need to wait til next week.