Craved

Scuff it back with 200 -280 grit, then use a 2K primer, then spray on a guide coat and sand back ... you'll be suprised at how many imperfections will be in it that the gel coat hides.

Tein sell them as a kit, however some people have made their own, there is a thread regarding these in the Fabrication section if your handy and want to make some yourself.

i vote for exhaust gasket leak, without knowing the definition of "howling". common issue with the lock tabs not working or breaking on the turbo flange bolts. But some answers to R31Nismoid's question will help the diagnoses.

Anyone found a cheaper place in Sydney?

makes sense to me, no need for a bare metal rspray other than beiong able to say its a "bare metal" respray .. most people wont know the difference these days anyway.

AAC = Auxiliary Air Control the valve is located on the plenum and is not related to the air conditioner.

thats handy to know, cheers. i can definatley see the opinions above regarding what is a better way to have this done. there are however people who would like to learn a little by doing it themselves, i am one of these people. having done all the prep work on my cars respray it does take longer than a pro shop to get to a stage ready for paint and there is always going to be something you wish you spent more time on. Unless you are being quoted a few hundred dollars less to do this work yourself, the time and effort is not worth the extra it would cost you, other than for education purposes.

seal the turbo intake pipe and insert compressed air into the turbo system .. then use your ear and soapy water to establish if there is a leak.

scuff top layer with 400 wet dry or scotch brite to remove shine off clear coat and also any wax's fix dents then prime , block , prime , block til its straight. then paint if you have waves etc in the panels, use a higher grit like 280 to get more straight then prime over the top. no need to go back to metal unless fixing a major dent. etch primer isnt usually much of a sealer either, so if it gets wet it can still rust.

np mate

the first pic is the water feed up to the systems bleed valve and throttle connector and if im not mistaken also feeds the water inlet to the std feed line for the turbo via the inlet manifold. perhaps making a custom hard pipe that sits above the inlet runners that is fed from that first pics water feed, then connects back to the std water lines behind the head.

remove centre garnish - 5 bolts near boot lock. then in the rear guards to the outside of the lights there are 3 nuts each side - need to remove boot lining and stick your hands down in the gaps. then pop the plugs that are under the rear "skyline" garnish.

So much for Old pac runs http://www.smh.com.au/news/national/tough-...1089315886.html just hope they find the family

the blue of my car is a the BA falcon "Blue Print" with gold pearl over white base colour.

daytona blue from the 350z ??

Ed, have a look through this one, it may show you what you need http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=93963

sounds like a fuel delivery issue. check your fuel filter and pump

3 bolts then just pull it out .. has a half moon key that is inserted into a spline type drive .. just wiggle it as you pull it out.

custom cross flow radiator. OR does the standard RB25 radiator fit in the s13 ? try just jap for an alloy rad for cheap

there is a sticky thread at the top of this forum sub section that has all the paint codes

just checking that you completly bled the cooling system after you changed them .. as air pockets will read as a high temp spot that can cause fast fluctuations in teh temp readings

yes mate still got it, just been resprayed and the front forks rebuilt. havent ridden it in over 6 months though due to the work on it, but its almost put back together.

Profile 2K is the brand check your local auto paint suppliers for the brands they have. 8 base 1 thinners 1 hardner as a 2K primer requires a hardener. check the label for the primer you choose ALSO ensure you are given the correct reducer for the primer given as some reducers can cause the primer to over harden which is a MAJOR pain in the ass

Im pretty sure the SAFC allos you to use a z32 power Fc are better unless your using an auto Remap is for R32's std ecu (ie Dr Drift etc)

If im not mistaken the owner of that car is on this forum somewhere