Craved

Stock ECU will not run a Z32 without a remap clean it, resolder it (gtr AFm repair thread in DIY) or get a second hand one.

2K primer is different use the directions on the can of primer you use .. the profile 2K primer i use is 8 to 1 to 1

if it doesnt, just unbolt the connector from the turbo heat shield and mount it elsewhere to allow you more length. "bolt on" never means "without issues"

Heres some threads from a US z forum where people are using roll on paint and spray cans to paint their cars with very good results. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=107977 and http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=117199

so they connect from the front suspension to the front of the rear subframe? look like added brace to assist the U channel frame rails of the unibody ... stiffening of the chassis from front to back rather than most people stiffening from side to side..

could use the bevel mounts for halongen lights for that.. but looks good but dont think i could do it to my street car, but your race car should benefit this.

ok mate awesome

Ash , any updates with getting pics for us mate?

sucks bigtime Wil

Windsor exhaust in Richmond -- on Windsor St also importers of Stainless piping

call justjap, or sss automotive and get a quote

i think he means that he pops the boot release, then closes his drivers door, and the vacuum change in the car actually makes his boot relatch itself. as in teh boot moves up enough to have weight for it to lock, or that there is enough vacuum to cause the boot to close enough to relatch.

from what i have seen of the tank on my car, the 33's are plastic composite

i have a 2 way from a Tommy Kaira R33 in my car, same thing as you with the noise - driveways when one wheel pops up and sometimes on u turns .. been thinking of getting some nolethane or urethane Diff mounts but havent seen any anywhere. the slight push understeer gets you the first time it appears, but after you modify the driving style they are really great and predictable diffs.

thats the thermostat housing. remove the lower radiator pipe, remove the housing and replace the thermostat. wire brush the housing cover and check if it was the hose leaking or the housing. if hose replace it, if housing then check for bends, its probably just the gasket gone. once its all clean insert new thermostat, then seal the housing onto the block with a high temp sensor safe gasket sealant. then refit hose.

muffler or the TIP ?

VRS kit for $200 - nice last time i got one it was over $350 from nissan.

i started once cut out the templates out of cardboard masked the area off with think layers of tape to create a buffer between the painted engine bay and where the glass would be layed. then i ran out of time that day, few days later the tape had all come unstuck so i ripped it out and just made an alloy one up. this idea is probably the BEST option to take to ensure a completely sealed unit from heat. and once you peel the cardboard off the outside of the box you make, just line it with a heat shield material and it will be perfect.

if you can remove and reinstall it yourself i would think about $400-$500 to replace the gasket and have the head decked and cleaned. obviously that doesnt cover what ever it was that caused the fault in the first place.

im from out near Richmond, though the car doesnt get out much atm Justjap.com for rad hoses though UAS has them too just try to pop into everysection on the forum here, you WILL find everything that you need.

MSCN.com.au - but they dont have those filters on the web .. but from memory they are about $100 each but are reuseable(cleanable mesh insert) you may be able to find cheaper ones.

interior bits = for sale section look for someone wrecking a car, then jump in. as for rotors = RDA rotors are the cheapest slotted, check the group buy sections for deals paying off work to a workshop - i doubt any shp would allow you this option.

paint strippers - any auto shop/hardware sand paper and some elbow grease. sand blasting kit from supercheap (if you have a compressor) if its all dry and its only the colour you want to change, then scuff it back with 400 wet/dry or scotch brite green - the paint over it

Tone your language back, absolutely no need for it. i was being serious, as you didnt mention the size of said "pool mark" it is hard to determine how much has leaked, what size it is etc. the easiest way to resolve your situation with little or no money spent is to bypass the heater core with some copper tubing, the hoses are just behind the passenger side cam cover, join them together to remove the core from the system - although this stops your heater from working, atleast you wont run out of coolant and over heat the car. then fix it up as per the DIY thread in the DIY section for replacing the core.

page one of the DIY section http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=169471