Craved

no one dropped a coke bottle without the lid completely shut? cos heater core leaking sure smells funny, but not usually sticky. plus the heater core leak will get worse

S1 garnish has the letters in a chrome paint, the rest of it is clear.

Oh that sucks Scooby. i learnt from B-Man's mistake with his rb25 and 3040 setup, he had the same thing happen to him i run a small inline filter from motorsport connections on my feed line.

yeah that will work for you, probably a better idea to run a oil/air seperator (catch can) but there isnt anything damaging about that setup as long as there is no chance the plugs you put in the intake pipe will fall into the turbo.

haha Michael - some are that lucky ....... Yeah it wouldnt be very hard to make, but to make them correct is the tough part, and one of the reasons there is this thread any ideas on where that one way door is on the high energy sump ? should there be say 2 x one way doors blocking off the wing sections of the sump?? or would say a mesh type wall be almost as good as a trap door, so the oil will flow but not HEAPs compared to no door section .. or ..................... (insert ideas here)

what did the rebuild kits cost you?

personally i think its a bad idea, sound too loud and be going EVERYTIME your on boost .. std turbo so will be from pre 3000 rpm to 7000rpm EPA fines, cop bait etc etc -

yeah your correct, but there is always that one spot that doesnt play nice .. then you get the small balls on ths inside from the penetration .. never very much though

should be real easy , prob take about 30 mins to do..

sigh

i would guess at 300-350 just in material .. never mind the hours spent to cut bend weld and design it

looking at it, it was a half tube for the round section hammer and doly or english wheel for the other bends .. please correct me if im wrong though

yeah fair enough, i have the y adapters and stuff at home, but atm the cost of GAS overrides the need for true purging ... all the exhaust work i have dont has been section cuts for wastegates - which i die grinded after each section was welded one.. making it smooth internally

ecu water temp is needed to allow for cold start maps. most people use a alloy fitting in the top Radiator hose that has a threaded insert so the temp probe can sit in the water flow. most A/M guage probes dont fit in the std dash guage sensor location on the intake manifold. best bet is a generic or Greddy adapter that can be put in the top hose.. i made one up just using alloy pipe - not as pretty as the alloy made ones from greddy etc

The Kemppi has the adjustment to allow you to control the spread of the arc when running AC so i'll play with that a little more .. i only run about 105 Amps on 2.5mm alloy sheet. yeah makes sense with the natural L cup to allow the filler to melt in easier .. there is a fair bit of stuff in the welding thread under the fab section in regards to running V groves for T joints . Welding from both sides would be ideal if there is enough space to run the bead next to the bolt holes... for looks sake i guess you would run the welds on the inside first so as not to destroy the outside look due to the 2nd pass.

looking good Michael, are you going to weld it bolted up to a block to stop any warping that may happen? also - the welding, are you going to weld on the outside or the inside? im way better at Corner joints than i am at T joints is why i ask (need more practice i think)

it could be powder coat not paint, but just use a spray primer filler to fill any chips, then rub the existing paint with 400 wet dry or scoth brite green. primer would just allow you to get a perfect finish

couldnt tell you, i do stuff like this myself except for laying the colour and clear . prob $400 or so

looks nice and neat

Michael, Have you tried a product called "solar flux" ?? it seems widely used in the US as a paste flux purge to use on the inside of pipe welds where purging the entire pipe is either not viable or will waste a large amount fo gas .. been trying to find it here in AUS but none of my welding suppliers have got it.

panel beater to weld in some circles to close the gaps, then file it back, small layer of filler to ensure smooth, prime boot and repaint.

and tape them before you start sanding so you dont have to repolish the rim lip.

i think your oil cooler has too many holes around it to work efficiently ... if you remove the centre splitter section, then remove the holes and drop the IC but it is painted so i would leave it

Michael my sister works with CAD for house design, i might take a trace design from one of my spare sumps and see if she can create a CAD template of it, as i dont have a Guillotien at home the job of cutting some 4mm thick alloy doesnt look too promising for me. ($3 a cut at the local Capral though) a mate of mine used to work next door to a water cutting place, might get some prices on getting them cut out. - once we have the CAD design that is. Can you explain the "cold working" you mentioned? how does this material go with the more std alloy material in terms of weldability etc.

i used VHT gold witha VHT clear coat on mine long before this thread came up, still working great, looks the same as the day i painted it (well when they are washed ) The Red Metalcast is nice, i just painted some rb20 cam, cam gear and valley covers . look great ! (1 can of each to cover all 4 items) being a long flat item it is difficult to keep the coats thick enough but thin enough for the metalic to shine, thicker wetter coats remove the paints likely hood of being slightly rough in its finish. colour sand and a buff would fix that though.