basically the flange point where the sump's surface meets the block ..
basically need to run a flange to bolt up to the block, then weld onto that the sides of the sump etc.
what thickness alloy did you use for the flange?
any ideas on alloys ability to withstand the vibrations and weight off the sump when it is say 2.5mm thick?
so you got an Xr6 turbo's turbo ..
i ran a HKS gt3040 with 1.12 rear housing and poncam -- full boost at 5000rpm .. way to laggy for the street as to get on boost you have to be doing 30-40kms over the limit
someone has used this turbo before, have a search it'll be there somewhere
did you cut the flange yourself or get it laser cut or something?
any ideas on the cost of the flange? im pretty keen on this setup and having 2 rb30 and 1 rb25 on stands at home it will be a nice challenging project for myself.
In regards to Windage trays, are the Louvered style like the stock ones sufficient or would a stainless mesh type similar to aftermarket chevy v8 style windage tray be better?
you will need an etch primer on the metal surface, followed by a std primer then sand then paint
if its not metal but chrome stuff, sand that off then prime and paint
might want to think about a heat shield between the cooler and the exhaust, also some ducting infront of it to force air in so it doesnt just go under as that would be the easier path
can you put up a diagram of how the flat bar is positioned
in keen to make one of these myself and was always cautious in regards to baffling.
Also note that Silver-gtst had an aftermarket ps resevoir installed on his car, and the system pressurised and caused the seals in the pump to leak (where as the std one is not 100% sealed)
scratch x from meguirs ..
that said i used to use a magnetic P plate way back when .. and it never left a mark, so its either your specific one or the surface wasnt clean or dry when you applied it
without knowing the size or complexity of the welding jobs, i would suggest welding up a new steel table with a steel top on which to weld, they allow you to stand or sit, and act as the earth so you dont need to move the earth line around.
yeah mine disintegrated completely on teh exhaust end ..
but it must be there for a reson .. same reason as the volt stabiliser/earth kits
i took a pic from the engine manual, but i cant upload it ... it bolts into the bolt on teh front turbo cover on the bolt that is closest to the strut tower
Most of the changes required will be determined by the location of the flange on the manifold.
my 3040 is on a maifold that set further back to the firewall so i cannot run the outlet pipe where the ps resevoir would be so it had to go facing down then 90 bend to the font of the car ..
regardless the L pipe as mentioned will need to go