Craved

big job for that, also finding custom lights to fit the holes, the finding something you can mold off to make the circular sections plus you need to get some parkers in there somewhere doesnt look hard to do, but doesnt look cheap either

can you save the pic and upload it, where its hosted is blocked by my work but if its the one im thinking of, it has 3 lights and would need to be built from scratch also.

probably not! you would require to have 2 lights - high and low beam - or a bi-Xenon that is both in one

they arent at .. i got that from bkc's link website simply showing it to you, you would probably need to start again from scratch to make something similar for the 33

like this one?

http://www.cometic.com/faq.aspx "What surface finish is required to us an MLS head gasket? A surface finish of 50 RA (roughness average) or finer, is recommended for a proper gasket seal. Anything rougher may conflict with the gasket design. " Also "Why does Cometic recommend MLS gaskets to be installed dry? Cometic Multi-Layer Steel (MLS) head gaskets go on dry because they are coated with a sealant. Each MLS head gasket is coated with a .001" thick viton rubber that is bonded to the outer stainless steel layers. Adding an additional sealer can hinder the performance of an MLS head gasket. " even with this second quote, i used a gasket sealant _ hylomar i think. spray on light coat only

Alloy can be mig'd - needs a new liner in the MIG (teflon), and Argon gas - mainly TIG'd though Welding is Melting the metal .. so of course alloy melts Mild steel needs to be coated/painted or it rusts - other 2 wont. temps down is a tough one ... stainless retains heat more than alloy , but once hot alloy will cool down quicker .. best to keep it here as the fabrication section is for how to do something yourself, not generic questions like this. stick with alloy or stainless.. make your choice according to the look your after (rest seems a bit of over thinking )

unarmed_skyline was talking about whats needed to make one from scratch he is basically saying that the std airbox is in the same place for N/A and Turbo .. same goes for the TB Alloy is lighter - harder to maintain the same surface finish without working on it stainless is heavier - but once you install it it will look the same after time

make em for a gtst and you'll make more cash

i'll probably need to make 2, one for the std steel bonnet and one for my fibreglass one. mines a gtst so we can both have a go

so your saying that if its shifted slightly it may stop being able to move the system enough to unlock the door?

Shane - that link doesnt work -- no comparison items selected .

sweet, been trying to guage the response from my HKS version 3040 with the 0.86 rear once the motor is built (prob another year at this rate) same cams etc

use the heat gun, and go really slowly.. i removed the fronts off my lights like that.. or go the oven trick

Which turbine housing was this with?

oh, thought it was more, but i havent been there for about 7 years lol will take a trip down there soon

from memory pick and payless charge you to get in as well i'll see what i can do, gotta finish welding up my new ext gate pipes first

im willing to give this ago but need to find some shocks to use. if your looking at $100 just in new struts, then the work involved in making them seems like the $200 from tein isnt really that bad. i'll pop into a local wreckers and have a look around .. then i'll have a play

CT16 truck wash

here you go

yes, as i said in the first post, member on GTR.co.uk has done it he removed the clear outer lens , then painted the inner splitter piece car body colour.. bit of kitty hair to mold the plastic inner to the headlight body, sand back and paint.

1 and 2 -- most fuel cells have thier outputs on top of them, which means they will require a lift pump also, check will fuel cell makers on price and whats included - you may be able to get one with it istalled - also look into running a fuel level guage off this so you dont run out. 3) see pic attached - it matches your description .. as for can it be done ... well you will need to work out a vavling system that will allow this as i havent really seen one that will. have a chat to places like motorsport connections in seven hills to see if they have something from speedflow etc that will do this for you.

i think you'll find there are no lights in those housings. they have just just the std plastic outer cover, the molded in the the centres ..

undo the stopper arm by pulling the pin open door unbolt the door plug with 10mm undo four bolts holding door while someone else holds door up so it doesn hit the deck

haha whoops - yeah the twin lines should have come from the cell not the stock tank you would need a valve on both sides of the Y (before the twin pumps) to stop any vacuum effect from the dual pumps. this effectively removes the surge tank from the equation when running from the cell.