Craved

yeah, nothing on the snap on site

oh ok

if the red is 35% then putting a 35% behind it will cut it down to around 20% anyway ..

go 15 or 20 then

I have had 5% all round for over 4 years.. its not hard to see out of once your used to it, reverse lights on 33's atleast are bright enough to reverse with (only if you actually turn around) plus it makes anycar look alot better than the 35% legal stuff oh and also been through Defect stations on the way to summernats in NSW - no issues with the tint (despite 11 other defects) - only ever had 1 cop mention it - got away with saying the windows are dirty

did you oven bake your painted items? i had VHT on the valley cover of my rb25 - was painted and car was run and used for about 4 weeks, then when it came in contact with overpsrayed Carbie cleaner it came off on those spots .. seems like running temps aren't good enough to cure them, well to me anyway

Got any links to these Blu point jacks ?? never see the long ones in shops i go to .. my mech has one that is about 60mm at the cup. need something like this for all the work i do on my cars -- cant wait to have a 4 or 5 pump full lift jack rather thana cheapie $40 one that takess 20+ pumps to full lift which is still too low.

tried new plugs?

Its a Kempii like this one http://www.rapidwelding.com/item--Kemppi-M...0--6162000.html except the backing on it is black not white (around the dials)

the split fires are direct replacement for the std coils... soo S2 run the ignitor in the coil pack itself .. is this how your ford ones run? i wouldnt think so with the MSD 4 here are pretty much teh cheapest in Aus you can get the splitfires for that i know http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=153971

Yeah its an AC/DC TIG .. variable Freq and Amps . digi display, upslope and downslope adjustment, pre and aft gas supply time adjustments plus a how lot of stuff i havent worked out yet on it

yeah but without any lights, its worth the $16.50 each for the bigger ones to light up the auto button etc

Guess i might have to, but im sure i read they are available ... guess i should look on fast when i get home

Mate i have a TIG at home, its a mates that i've been given for a few months. I work in IT at night i have made up a suuport for the lead, im using a U bend support made for the return line from a washing machine, this is suspended from teh roof by an oky strap to hold the line up off me and support the weight so its easier to control. i rest the nozzle on the job for SS as the torch angle can be closer to parrallel to the job, alloy doesnt really allow that from what i have tried. i think perhaps i am holding the handle too far from the job as well. might have a look at extending the tungsten past the nozzle end by 5mm or so. its about 10mm out for SS. also got sick of being (sun)burnt all the time, so i went and got some pigskin leather TIGing gloves - SOOOOOOO much better.

do these include th backing screw in bit? my AC doesnt have any lights at all and the screw sections are gone too

Never actually seen prepsol for sale anywhere .. i have looked for it at my local auto paint suppliers but they didnt really have it displayed anywhere. yeah will do mate, doubt they would run on weekends though.

did you use the engine loom from the 33 or the original 32 one? oh and when you checked teh pulsing of the injectors with a light, was it a LED test light? since a std test light wont work on injectors. and you made sure the fuel lines are on the correct way around.. just to make sure

made myself a breakthrough lastnight with my Alloy welding .. now i can actually run a neat bead for 300mm or so now .. just gotta work on my cleaning of the metal. im using scrap bits atm to practice so they are farily dirty and impregnated with crap on the cuts. Thinners good enough for cleaning before welding alloy? other than hitting it with a SS wire brush what else can be done.

Hi mate, i mad a rail for a fixed bucket out of flat bar 30mm x 5mm thick. did you find out what welder you have? if you make these yourself just note that they wont be legal to use on the road (engineers cert may fix this but expensive) got pics of the rails? will be easier to give ideas if we can see what its startig as Chris

Working nights put TAFE courses out for me - but then again, everytime i've looked there are no courses other than for apprentices

im pretty sure the rb30 runs a 1.8mm. but you will need to measure them, i doubt i could tell the difference between 2mm adn 1.5mm with the naked eye.

Thermostats are on the side of the block, under the plenum to the left and back of the viscous fan. see the big open hole in the pic.. right hand side of the pic

the 500-A022 is a direct bolt on to the std r33 and Z32 AFM's.

You will need the thinners the suppliers reccomend for that type/mix of paint. - same with the clear i wouldnt go using multipurpose in it

only reason if that would be tricky is if the underside of the circuit board isnt flat