1SLP80
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Everything posted by 1SLP80
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As above, coil packs. Is it a series 1? I had the same issue, so i pulled out my coil packs and checked them out. I couldn't see any cracks in them, but i thought that while they are out i may as well give them a hit of silicone just in case. So i covered all the coil packs with silicone, because even the most miniscule crack can cause drama's. let them cure for 24hrs and put them back in. Went on the dyno just after and made 250rwhp and didnt miss a beat. Remember to use high temp as well, i used shellys roof and gutter silicone if i remember correctly. Here is a link to my thread like this on NS.com, their is pictures and other infomation you might find usefull. http://www.skyline-gt.com/forums/index.php...327197&st=0 peace.
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Rb20 Turbo And Dump
1SLP80 replied to 1SLP80's topic in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
Thanks mate, i have no idea what they are worth as i have a 25. Price drop $150 -
Hey chaps, Sellin this stock RB20 turbo for my housemate. Can vouch for the car and the turbo. It has only run stock boost, as it was a stock car. Its has very minimal shaft play, blows no smoke at all, and comes with everything in the pictures. For a quick sale, chasing $200 with or without the dump. Located in brisbane south side, will post interstate at your expense Scott.
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Why do manufacturers like tomi make the bellmouth style aposed to a split dump if they are not a better design? I just brought a JJR bellmouth front/dump pipe........ Which i must say, looks to be quite poor quality. I asked around and most people said that the bellmouth was a better design than the split dump.
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1KW is equal to 1.34102HP
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Rb25 Turbo Upgrade, All Dyno Results
1SLP80 replied to Nacho Vidal's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
My RB25 powered 180sx The motor is stock but i have the following mods Standard dump/front 3'' exhaust pod cooler catch can .9bar apexi afc neo The tuner said an o2 sensor is dead, which is contributing to the crappy curve. Once that is replaced and i get a boost controller, he said that i should be making near the 270rwhp mark with a proper tune. -
Pull out your coil packs........ Its easy to do. Undo the 8 screws that hold the plastic cover on, at the top of the engine. Take the wired off the coil packs........ 6 of. pull the coil packs out, and check them very carefully for cracks. I did this, and found NO cracks. I covered the underside of the coil packs with high temp (shellys roof and gutter) silicone. Checked and re gaped plugs to .8, now the problem is no more, im running .9 of a bar too. Only mods are pod, cooler, full exhaust and pump .........
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OH DAMMIT! not that i dont believe you....... can anybody unfortunately confirm
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Rather than start a new thread................ might as well hijack Just wondering if the r33s1 and the r34gt dump pipes are the same?? I know that the r33s1 and r33s2 turbo's have slight differences but that has nothing to do with the dump. Hopeing 34's will be the same????
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So basiclly your saying rb20 and rb25 are the same......... I think i need to go nuts with some high temp salastic.. BTW, for anybody interested, this is a link with pics. Seems im getting more help from a 4 banger site http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...howtopic=327197
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nobody?? Trying to rule out the cause of my misfire above 5k....... i have read the sticky on it too.............. Is their a difference??
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Just wondering if thier is a difference between the rb25s1 and the rb20's? My rb25 has rb20 Ignightors?????? Goddd, bad or nutreal?? cheers..
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Vote against NIZZPRO!!!!!!! Steer clear
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I have no clue if they are the same, but from factory the s1 RB25det should sit at 1.1kpa when WARM at idle (600rpm). Is your oil warm?
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HAHA i was jusr PRESUMING i could get 0w50.... this was not the case. I settled for "valvoline SYN POWER" 5w40, full synthetic (motor is less then 5000kms since standard rebuild). at idle, my oil pressure is spot on, and the Engine seems to run more quitely. Not to sure how its gunna go at the track though. When i was at supercheap, i couldnt find out what class oils they were i,e I,II,III,IV or V...... Doesnt say it on the bottles nor on the shelf. How do u know???
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Yeah i know, in the middle of sorting out my cooler/relo kit and extra thermo fan. I cant fit it till my kit is on or i may have to move stuff around anyway.
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OK sweet as........ 0w50 is what im gunna get in a group IV. In the very 1st post it says that 0w40 thins down- and equates to about 20wt, which is not good for track use. At least the 50wt will give me a bit of head room. Thanks to everybody that assisted me in understanding the whole oil thing. Scott
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R33 Gtst Smic Upgrade To R34 Smic - Results (video & Pics)
1SLP80 replied to QRI05E's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
What is the go with the ecu reset?? Ive done intake and exhaust mods, and now goes to .9 bar (about 13 psi) and now its missing at up the top end. could it need resetting? -
can these be used on radiator hoses and such??
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I did state in my 1st post in this topic that i did not understand all the tecnichal side of the oil. But many thanks for now helping me out. I understood your reply much better than the 1st (correct or not haha). Only 1 question, You say the smaller the gap between the number the better, yeh? if so, and your car heats up as much as mine (RB25 s1- in a 180sx), would i not be better going for a higher rated oil, like a 10w60? so as the car gets hot, it will thin out to like a 10w40? or am i completly wrong, and it wont thin out that much, so a 0w40 would be ok? p.s i will be going grade 4 p.p.s i will be getting an oil cooler in the coming months, but the car will see the track again before this happens.
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Acctually, never mind. Ill chuck 8100 in and hope for the best. Lots of people seem to be running it so i'll be a sheep i supose. No idea if its right for My needs, but seing as nobody will take 2 mins to explain the principals behind choosing my oil (as i dont understand the examples on the 1st page) i'll retain my ignorance and be none the wiser.
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Not being smart chaps, but i have read this thread......a few times. I dont understand the principals, as i said on the previous page. This is my main problem.
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Only the auto's do it. I believe you will find that your car has had a manual conversion done in the past.
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My mate, with a 25, not rebuilt is using a full mineral oil, "HPR ?/20 or ?/30". He also recomended "penrtie sin" does this sound good? any imput would be good, and also referance the ? too- 5w/20?
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Rb20det Head And Rb20 Std Turbo
1SLP80 replied to yogibear's topic in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
You wouldn't know if the standard sturbo is the same as red top sr?? 25g? A mate would get this