lilcrash

I did some research and used a 320 grit disc on a dremel. It's no different to paying $1300 for a ring grinder.

I read the wrong side of the torque wrench. It was only the oil filter mount and thermostat housing anyway. I'm getting it put on a dyno before I drive it to make sure the tune is safe for running it in. And I was going to hold the wastegate open for run in anyway.

Ok so the rings are all set. But I just realized that I have been using ft lb with the n-m setting an over tightened a few things

Does it still have the harmonic balance on it?

Wish mine had auto lights :'(

All of mine work. There appears to be lots of small differences in a lot of cars.

Where is it located, If it's close to me il do it fr you gho5t

The pistons are cp 86.5mm 9.0:1, reason for rebuild was a small crack in the number 1 cyl ring land. Here is a run down of what I've purchased for the build. Cp pistons, nismo engine mounts, oem timing belt kit, oem water pump, king bearings, crank collar bush, arp head studs, oem gasket kit, 1 new intake valve, spigot bush, clutch fork boot. Maching costs were as follows - head $650, block $650, crank/other prep $850.

Lol. Someone came back . How far is your workshop from rydges at north Sydney? We have a credit for $300 to stay there from last year when we were supposed to come down but my wife got pregnant and we didn't feel comfortable flying. I'm considering driving down so you can do my tuning.

stock clearances and all stock parts except for the pistons.

14-16N-m plus 60-65 degrees.

ok update. out of the box the rings measure as follows, #1 - .010 and .020, #2 - .012 and .022, #3 - .011 and .020, #4 - .011 and .020, #5 - .010 and .022, #6 - .011 and .020. ive set all the mid rings to .022 as per cp specs. with any luck i can find a harder file tomorrow and set all my top rings to .018 and yes i realize im probable talking to myself, but im considering this as my blog from now on. that way atleast i can come back and find out what ive done/done wrong

ok resizing rings just got harder, ive killed 3 files and havent even scratched the first ring yet.

Machining was done by joh at bundamba, assembly by me.( haven't actually assembled it yet)

Where are you, I've got a neo cover I'm not using.

It's an rs4s so yeah it's manual, open to swaps pending what it is.

Ok anyone want to buy it with a freshly built motor before I turn the key? It's got cp 86.5mm pistons.

Yeah it's just my conrods. The only one I found was $35 for a Kinchrome one. I need to find a piston ring grinder too so mayb I will just buy one.

Just thought I would try the cp ring gap calculator formula and according to that my ring gaps should be top .018 mid .024 and oil minimum .015. That's kind of disturbing.

just noticed something strange, in the paperwork for the pistons it says the rings are made to suit a specific bore size but when measured they came back at top .010 and mid .015 what grade file should i use to file the gap?

Does anyone near ipswich have one I can use to tighten up my con rod bolts? I just don't want to buy one to use it once.

Arp says tighten according to manufacturers specs to 80N-m but the manual says higher so should I just 3 step upto 80?

Ok incase anyone cares. I'm going top 17 mid 19 oil 16. The manual says to stretch the head studs, do arp studs need this done too? Will i need to re tension the head studs after the run in? Head settings In my manual says Tighten to 29N-m Tighten to 98N-m Loosen to 0N-m Tighten to 25-34N-m Tighten to 93-103N-m But the arp booklet says 80N-m What should I do?

Is everyone refusing to help or does no one know what the ring gap is supposed to be?

Gtr260 - I can probably fit them for you if you want.