lilcrash

Problems/issues installing a hypergear atr43ss-1 turbo. 1. Fouls on heat sheild on manifold - cut piece out to clear housing, dint the heat shield or use 10mm flange spacer. 2. Rear housing is 20mm longer - move all exhaust mounts forward 20mm 3. Water lines don't line up - get custom made lines 4. Oil drain on awkward angle - custom made oil drain 5. No boost reference nipple in turbo - weld on into one of your custom pipes 6. Needs custom intake - make custom intake

Il post up a new thread with all the issues I had since the hypergear installation and what I did to fix them Edit, il post it in here first and if there is a problem with what I say I can fix it before I create a reference thread.

I've got a pair here, only removed to install painted ones, free +post if you want them

^ yes he does and 100-110 degrees

For the drive home from work il back off some of the preload, then tonight il swap actuators and put the boost t back on. Pipster, yer I still have it.

I pmd him, I was actually considering putting the 7psi actuator on and see if I can turn it up to 20psi.

Yeah that sound fair, but I agree with pipster. Most places can take a few mm off if you need it.

Yer a +6 should be about right then, although it will depend on your camber settings. On my car if I lowered it a +6 is perfect.

I now have 3 actuators. 7psi creep up to 16psi, 22psi drop to 14psi and 25psi drop to 20psi

Yer afm is the wife's car sorry.

With the old actuator I was dropping from 20 to 14, new actuator I'm dropping from 25 to 20. All my issues are resolved apart from the boost drop, but I don't think that is fixable, I'm planning on getting it tuned to suit the current boost curve and see what happens. Was just curious how much boost everyone else is loosing.

Ok so how many people reading my thread have hypergear turbos? How many psi does your turbo loose from peak to redline? From what I have read hypergear turbos are supposed to have a boost creep behavior not a boost bleed off behavior. Am I just over thinking it?

By my measurements. A + 9 will sit the same as mine, but I'm at stock height and my rims would probably tuck into the guards dropped. So I'd probably run a +6.

Off sets don't matter, just rolling diameter, I have 18x8 with +35 fronts and +6 rears on my rs4s, I didn't realize that the manual needs same offset front and rear and the auto needs staggered offsets when I bought my rims. I'm putting 30mm spacers on my front rims when I get the time.

YES IT IS THAT SENSITIVE. YOU ARE NOT LISTENING. Having a slight flat tyre is enough to set off the attessa, just but wheels in IDENTICAL sizes. It's not a hard concept. Actually no. Just ignore my post again. I want you to f**k your car, maybe then you will listen.

Both times I've talked to them about a claim, they just asked for details and sent me to see the appropriate repair people. They handled everything and I didn't need to talk to them a second time.

As long as all 4 are identical sizes it's fine, I can tell you from experience even having a slightly flat tyre will set off the attessa.

The catch can is hooked into the intake. Don't think it's advisable to just let it drop on the road. It actually runs very very well, if that's limp mode I don't want to fix it. Then my wife's car will deffinately be quicker then mine.

Crans - the strange part is even if I don't have the afm connected to the intake just plugged in electronically it still misses, il try to resolder it tonight. Hopefully it works. I installed my catch can today so hopefully that's one problem fixed

f**king brain fart. I meant afm. But yer I think il go buy a new afm, just weird how it runs without it.

I'm with Shannon's, im 24 with a horrible driving history (2 crashes and 4 license suspensions) never had any issues with claims.

Instead of starting a new thread, here is some symptoms any clues would be appreciated Misses badly over 4000rpm, idles on 3 cylinders, backfires on gearcchages after it misses. runs perfectly when the tps is disconnected,

those wheels will not work.

Zebra, yer I thought it was but it's still doing it.

The rubber bend is off a ken worth truck, I dont think it can suck shut, I covered the air box hole and it actually hurt my hand before it sucked anything shut. I realize it would suck a lot harder under load/boost but I was curious. I understand the vapors coming out but a big stream?? If it was hooked up my turbo would have drowned I oil. The cat is a 3" cat. I'm doing a compression test tonight to see if the rings are stuffed. On a side note to add to my awesome luck with cars, my wife's car is melting fuses now. Yay