lilcrash

Awesome . Thanks

I was hoping so but I read on here that the bolts are different in the airbox . Guess I will know when darrin gets back to me.

Ok next silly question. What are the physical differences between the 2?? Do I just have to drill new holes in my air box?

I've had this for 2 years and haven't had the guts to get it off the ground. Comes with training legs, full rtf package. My wife paid $500 for it. Asking for $300. It has a damaged spur gear as it was in the full throttle position when I turned it on one day and the motor over powered the forces of the gearbox. Replacent cost is $10. I can replace it for you if want. Located in Ipswich.

Status - you may be right, you have alot more experience with turbo motors then me, im an old school carby toyota person, less problems, thats why i was leaning towards rings not bedding in. Get it stripped down already. Everyone wants to know what went wrong.

Boost actually forces the rings against the bores so 21psi may not be a damaging factor, on another forum I asked for people's opinions on running in and it all comes down to who you want to put your trust in. I was always impartial to the nice mountain drive with lots of high load pulls up hills and lots of early downshifts to load up down hills. But thats just my own experience as I learnt from my dad. There is lots of different ways to do it.

Status I agree with what you have said, also my understanding is boost actually helps the rings bed in quicker, but from those compression test results my experience says those rings didn't bed in.

I may be wrong but that engine was not run in properly. It's as simple as that, pistons out, re hone the bores and new rings at a minimum.

Just wondering if there is a difference. Thanks

I'm still a few weeks off getting my car out of limp mode. Currently 3000rpm redline due to excessive boost and stock afm, I have to organize with darrin to get a z32 afm. My injectors are somewhere between here and America, my ecu is somewhere between Melbourne and here and my fuel pump I havent purchased yet.

Hmmm could be interesting when I finish mine then, be good to compare the 26 with 250kw to my 25 with 250kw

Ok that makes sense then.

I'm not an any side of the fence for the rotary vs piston or the v8 vs turbo debate, a powerful car is just that. I only posted as to what I have seen with my own 2 eyes, as for the rx7( he only drives it once a week, every rebuild he gets a bigger port job and bigger turbo) - stock engine blew seals/too much boost, 1st rebuild over boost blew seals, 2nd rebuild tuner blew it up, 3rd rebuild seals just fell out, changed mechanic after that, 4th rebuild wasnt happy with the power, 5th rebuild water seal blew out an its now a monster port bigger then I've ever seen with a massive turbo with a t6 flange I think he said, aiming for 500hp previously with 400hp he almost smashed into a worked old Holden on the highway when it started spinning the wheels and he could barely keep it straight. Yes he is a complete dick of a driver. Big revs and dumps the clutch everytime he down shifts to race. Oh and as for the scales my stagea weighed in at just under 1700kg

Just a few thoughts an things I've learnt from working with an rx7 owner., series 4 rx7 1600kg( on the scales at work, not 10000000 of a micron accurate) so not that light, 4 rebuilds in 6 months now having it's 5th. Killed 2 diffs and 1 gearbox in that time.

The SS2 cost me I think $1340 or something. You might think its expensive but seriously, a Garrett alternative(3071 or 76) will cost you about $1700+ Then you need to buy a bunch of other shit to make it fit and get a new dump. Hypergear turbos, bolt on, tune, injectors, intake and away you go.turbo . I paid $1450 for a SS-1. I was told $1850 for a SS-2, that's why I went with the SS-1

Sadly my budget isn't as big as yours, I'm just hoping that 250 is enough to keep my happy for a few years, I was pretty happy with the stock power considering how my stagea handles but I guess when I get some suspension work I might aim a bit higher, I would love to see your car on the track some time.

Shit. I'm only after 250kw and that's your run in tune. How does it go??

^+1. Make in bulk and get the prices down. Would be good to see these turbos go mainstream and steal the thunder.

This thread has got me laughing, I didn't know my brother was on this forum under 5 different names. Lol. +rep everyone for a good funny thread.

Toshi, what would you charge for a tune if I already had the nistune installed? Thanks

I would be more worried about someone being hurt but definately would be a very bad conversation if it happened. I'm happy to pull the shaft if I need to, I'm just concerned about stuff going in the hole while driving. And I've got 2 quotes now, Ben Phillips - $190 first hour $170 every hour after, estimated 2.5hours so $445 Efi performance - $165 per hour, estimated 4-5hours so $660-825 Has anyone got some feed back on Ben Phillips, all I know is he used to work at Gavin woods autech.

Yer normally after I have started the car a few times trying and it doesn't work I pump it like crazy and i still end up giving up and driving in normal mode.

It's just weird, I have 3 common situations with this diagnostic. - unplug/start/pump light flashes and works in rwd - unplug/start/pump nothing happens, no 4wd light or awd lock -unplug/start/pump light stays on and locks awd I can even park it in rwd, then when I get back in it won't work when you start the car again, mayb the car doesnt see the brake pedal signal

Yer and as I said I do use that method some times. But it doesn't always work, my car doesn't always know the plug is disconnected. I know it doesnt always know because it doesn't lock into 4wd when u unplug it and just drive without pumping the brake pedal and the light doesn't come on.

Chuckie. This is why, I do use that technique sometimes for fun but I have heard of a guy loosing his legs and it's not worth the risk, and also it doesn't always work on my car.