lilcrash

Brakes definately need to be on the list but I think they can wait

To keep things simple let's set the goal at 200awkw

I don't have a power figure I'm chasing. Just want a reliable 1bar. If I can get it to out run an aurion I will be happy. But it's more of a me being stuck in my old ways. My celica I set up to run 1 bar and it was just a nice number. ATM I just over the boost cut on cold nights. If possible I wanted to keep my stock outlet location on the turbo and still use my jjr dump.

Ok so shopping list, feel free to make corrections and fill holes - Management - nistune turbo - ??? injectors - ??? Fuel pump - bosch 040 thanks for any info

basically if i was to buy a turbo that will actually keep up with the rb25s hunger for air would 14 psi be too much? i would of course buy a haltech, malpassi etc... i just dont want to buy stuff if at the end my engine just falls apart.

Stagea front pads are db1170. I work at richlands that's about as far as I go regularly.

list of repairs - coilpacks - bought splitfires, exhaust blocked - bought hks hi power cat back and jjr dump, intercooler cracked - bought jjr stealth cooler, hids were stolen at compliance - reinstalled them, clutch went - installed exedy heavy duty, brake pads died - replaced them, hit 100000kms - did the timimg belt and water pump, boost control stopped working - installed boost t, bov wouldnt stay closed - installed turbosmart type 3 with adapter/plumbback kit, battery dropped a cell - bought a new one, insurance required an imobiliser - installed one, stock rim wouldnt hold air - bought 18's. the only thing wrong now is its got camber but thats standard, in all its not a bad car there is nothing wrong with the car now, i just dont want to be owning it when something else goes wrong. pics of swapable cars to horne_steven at hotmail dot com

in that case ive got the ones that i pulled off my stag, free if you want them, not sure how good they are

Yer sure will

brand new at repco $80

yes i know im asking too much but it owes me more and im sick of having such an unreliable car, would suit someone who actually wants to spend the money to get some power/reliability out of it. i never should have bought a nissan i should have stayed with toyota. nothing but problems since i boughit, even the drive home was a horrible (never buy an import at burleigh heads incase you deal with the company i did). some one make an offer i need a daily driver.

still for sale.

am i wrong or is this really what it will cost. $37 for the eyelids plus import charges and postage equals $125.97 is there anywhere locally that can get these??

does anyone know where to get eye lids for a series 2 thank you

lumens (spelling??) is the measure for light. but yer as pipster said. most of the info on the packet will have lumens on it. i have only seen a few cheaper bulbs that didnt have lumens. but just remember if you go too high in the kelvin scale your light will deminish, i went for the 10000k simply because of the colour and i regret it now that i work night shift as driving down a dark nighway at 130 in the morning i need to use the high beams just too see further then 80-100m clearly. although all road side signs do light up very clearly for upto a few hundred meters.

Just to clarify kelvins is a measure of colour not brightness. I have a pair of 10000k bulbs and they are a darker blue/ green colour .

I may be wrong but I think splitfires are lifetime guarentee

Just my 2 cents. Splitfires are the only direct replacement, all the others only use one bolt as they are not the same size.

i have the same missing fuses and relay in my fuse box, my hids work perfectly

Thanks . I looked on google but that one didn't show up :s

Just wondering what problems I will encounter, is the speed signal the main issue, does anyone have both wiring diagrams?I'm thinking just putting the s15 cluster plugs on the s13 loom may be the easyway out, thoughts?

my wife bought a 2000 model celica because she always wanted one and now wont drive it because she cant park it, she wants her hilux back.

according to the temp sensor behind the intercooler it was 21 degrees. all of my tyres are pretty new, i cant spin the rears without the fronts doing the whole torque steer axle tramp thing so i dont try anymore. the highest my boost ever gets is about a mm or 2 below the top line on the boost guage.

my car hasnt had any mods done recently, but current mods are - jjr dump pipe, empty cat case, hks hi power cat back, jjr stealth intercooler, splitfire coilpacks, k&n panel filter, turbosmart type 3 plumb back. i could describe this feeling like speed cut but at 70km/h like it feelt like for a second the engine turned off i have been thinking about trying to fix the tune but i cant really decide what to do. im leaning on either a haltech, nistune or mines ecu.

anyway cruising home from work this morning get past the roadworks accelerate from 40 in second a few seconds in and wham feels like i hit a wall a second later it takes off again. its never happened before so kinda random, but yer i just thought i would ask.