lilcrash

It might only be my ignorance but is the autech really that much faster like the specs only say a 1kw difference. If there is anyone around Brisbane with a 260 let me know if you want to compare as a guy at work has a 400 hp r33 and it's not much faster then my stock series 2 except for the 180 speed cut that im not gonna remove

Wife and I will be at booval maccas to head down with the ippy ppl. Sorry Micah but this will have to be my confirmation. It's really hard to internet on my phone. But we won't be eating so don't count us in the BBQ numbers. C you all there. What chanel UHF are we using?

the only weird noises i have are the sqeaking brakes from being down to the wear pads. il give it a wiggle later and see

at 115 this morning i left work to come home and being a nice cold morning i decided to drive rather fast (or as fast as my stagea can i guess, its not that fast). anyway upon flat to the floor acceleration i notice my steering wheel turning right hand down. or rather falling right hand down. and now my steering wheel sits cocked to one side, at 60kms it sits pretty straight but at 100 it sits a long way around. my car is stock except for just jap dump, hks high power, gutted cat, just jap stealth intercooler and h&n panel filter. ive also got a turbosmart boost t cranked right open. so 10-11psi anyone have this problem??

sorry to interupt but i have a simlar problem, the faster i go the more i wobble. interested to see how you go.

sorry for going off topic, but i dont think the caster is adjustable on a stagea. is there anywhere you can buy adjustable caster rods?? my right hand side is bent i think.

ok boost issues solved, 10min boost mod complete. now just to sort out why i can hit 5th gear rev limiter at 120k/h :@ stupid nissan clutch grrr...

i did use an autometer guage to set it originally, my concern was mainly because i have a manual thus should be a constant 10psi not 6, the boost t turned it as far as 10psi, 11 when its below 10 degrees. has anyone else has issues with the stock boost solenoid not bleeding enough?? i would like to justr do the 10 minute boost thingy but dont completely understand what goes where. one more concern, ive started to notice that at about 5000rpm my car takes off, before that it sounds like the clutch is slipping. am i better off getting a stronger clutch to hold my stock engine?

hey all. so here is my dilema, my stock boost control will turn my boost up to the half way line on the stock guage, but with the turbosmart boost t i can only get it up another 1/4. is this normal??

i have read parts of this thread a few times and the whole time i thouht everyones numbers sounded too small an offset. so low and behold i finally bought tyres for my rims with my tax. my wheels are 18x8 +35 front and 18x8 +6 rear. the rears sit perfectly and my fronts require 10-15mm spacers. how is veryone happy with these +40 offsets??

i might be wrong but i always thought 700mmhg was more like 18-19psi.

im after a shopping bag hook and an interior boot light cover. any possibility??

she is about 1 metre long so fully grown, very placid snake, is fine with children, sale will include tank, stand(4 door cabinet), custom hood with 4 foot fluro(day light), 2 screw in light fittings(moon light and heat lamp) 3 seperate switches on the hood, thermostat to control the lights, heat rock, cave and water dish. i have had her from 15cm, regretful sale as i love her but real estate says i cant keep her. $1000 ono will need a license to transfer owner ship. located in ipswich

its a 7x4 coin opperated table (adjustable from 20cents to $4 possibly more if thats what you want, money box can hold over $400) blue cloth, comes with balls, triangle, 2 cues(one has been changed into a cheat stick/x brace)(we have our own 2 piece cues so we never need them), brush and kelly pool bottle with balls. its a slate table so you will need a few people to lift it, the top is held on by 2 key locks, and the legs will unbolt. bought it brand new for over $5000 bargain at $4000 ono, make an offer. located in ipswich

ok bills are pilling up $5000 ono

hey everyone, as the title says its a 2007 ttr50e, mods as follows(but has all the stock parts in a plastic container) gytr exhaust, gyrt big bar kit, re-jet kit(not curently fitted), gytr chain guide, gytr glide plate(a few scratches on it so it must be working), gytr cam cover, upgraded springs front and rear, flame sticker kit, brand new air filter included as they ordered a stock one be accident when iasked for a gytr performance filter, only on its 4th tank of fuel(neva actually emptied it i just keep draining it and re filling with new fuel when i go riding, only ever use premium, total running time maybe 5 hours) was serviced a few months ago when i last rode it. stock specs can be found at www.yamaha-motor.com.au for those who are interested, minor marks on rear white plastics due to my shoes rubbing on it. also comes with a 240v charger(plug hard wired into battery and hidden under the fuel tank) as to me not riding often i normally give it a quick re charge before i go riding. please someone buy it as my nephews love it and i dont want to choose who gets it. asking price $6000 ono.

but you have to remember my rear end is 40mm narrower then my front end. thats why ive got 46mm of empty guard at the moment with 17x7+40s

shopping bag hooks and the rear interior light cover??? thanks

i finally got my wheels, front is 18x8+35 rear is 18x8+6 but im going to get some 15mm spacers for the front. il try to get pics up when i get them fitted.

as long as it is a dry filter its legal, wet filters are illegal in qld. basically if its k&n its illegal, apexi is legal though.

im in pending price

ok i got my belt done today by dan at elite racing developments, here is what i got quoted and it is also what i ended up paying. he also picked up my car from my work and delivered it back for me to drive home. in my opionion that makes him a very nice mechanic, i recomend him highly. The timing kit costs $280 (this includes Gates racing timing belt, cam and crank seals and both bearings [idler and tensioner] New idler bolt is $5 (these are prone to breaking so best to replace it) Water pump is $130 (timing belt has to come off to do the water pump anyway and I haven't seen an RB water pump last two rounds) Coolant is $20 Labour is $231 once agian i recommend dan very highly

ok dan has already replied $666 which i believe is reasonable. so hopefully he has time to get me in, my odometer is at 99268

thanks, i have sent them an email. is it just me or is there address no where on the internet. i must be going crazy.

hey can anyone recomend anywhere to take my car for a timing belt replacement. ive got 800km to organise it. i live in ipswich but im willing to drive if i need to. ive got a series 2 rs4s stagea thank you in advance