bozodos

Just outta interest, I have a catch can hooked up to my engine and it vents to atmo, I'm not pressurising any part of the system by not having it recirculate am i?

Be prepared to wait a looong time if you're getting some made specially though.

I was kind of suspicious when I looked at their site and the LT-10S was recommended for 4 cylinder cars - If I'd known what these ECU's were prone to being like before buying the car I'd have gotten another one! I know that I have to send the ECU back to Microtech to get something changed in it to run VCT, and I have tried to contact them in the past and look on their forum RE my ATTESSA issue, but I've only got one car so it's kind of hard to just pull the ECU out and leave it sitting there for weeks on end. I am also heartily sick of driving a car which gets ~270km to a full tank, even though RB25's can be kinda thirsty, that's ridiculous for only having a KKR 480 and being driven on the highway mostly! Depending on the wiring (which I'm pretty sure is still mostly the RB20 stuff since it runs the RB20 igniter etc), I'm leaning more towards Nistune; my mates reckon remaps are just as good, but I guess that the tuner I end up going to can elaborate more on that. Whilst the PowerFC is popular amongst import owning friends, as well as the remap, I find the price of a RB25DET PowerFC + Z32 AFM to be kind of prohibitive, and I am also sceptical about the real 'need' for one in a car that is only mildly modded. On the good side of the Microtech though, the display is handy, and has warning lights for max injector duty, overboosting and a shift light, and I can monitor injector pulse, coolant temp, volts, boost and RPM with it, and when I had overboosting problems when trying to set up my Profec A boost controller, and cooler pipes slipping off, it cut (ignition I think?), which although scary is better than a blown motor!

lol @ that link. Their customer service number also sucks. This thread has been informative in many ways, I also like to see more than one side of an argument. BTW how is the LTX-12 superior to the LT10S in a Skyline, and is it really that bad that I'd be better off replacing it for when I do get a retune, (if so is there any other MAP sensor based ECU's around that price? both the PowerFC and Vipec options seem rather dear), or would an RB20 remap tune be better for my modest power aims of 250-270rwkw? Engo, I think that the point that 3lit3 32 and URAS are making is that the Microtech ECU's can be made to be co-operative, but that due to the inherent limitations of them, they are more prone to have problems.

Ironically, none of the F trucks getting around here are cowboy rigs, most have a nice paintjob (for some reason there's 5 or 6 purple and pink ones :S) it's all clapped out WB shitheaps or the new trend of 'cowboying' up a late 90s model Rodeo or Courier. I've also seen an XF ute with one of those flaps on the end of the exhaust which shuts unless under load, like some trucks have, and I've seen the driver deliberately ramming trolleys in it in carparks late at night, must be practicing for running down roos or something

there are R35 halfcuts getting around at all?

one other thing, steer clear of modified cars, i have learnt this the hard way.

So really you're better off changing to a GREDDY type intake mani, and GT-R rail + injectors rather than just using drop in replacements for the RB25DET pricewise? I'm finding that the stock ones seem to be hitting awfully close to full cycle sometimes (had a light come up on the display once to indicate max duty when setting up EBC with continued 18psi runs), and are now looking at replacing the injectors rather than be dodgy and use a FPR.

I've seen "feral" utes at the local show have what appeared to be canola oil poured directly into the carburettor to induce awful white smoke in clouds I also used to live near the Ute Muster site in Deniliquin, it's the only place in australia where people think you're really cool to have a WB ute done up with more lights, horns, aerials and a bigger bullbar than a semi trailer. Will post pics of local offenders when I get the chance haha

Haha I'll let you know RE the exhaust, girlfriend just got an EPA notice for her Datto ute being too loud, will probably try drilled out bits of metal between flanges since it apparently already has 2 mufflers :S. I have had a flange put after the last bend of my pipe so I can swap over a cannon if need be.

Haha yeah if turbo R34's were going for that amount, you'd see a lot more of them (and a lot more shitty ones owned by bogans) getting around, kinda like the R33. I'd go GTS-T (R32) personally ;p

lol well I've not noticed any flames coming from mine, just more smoke, and a LOT more noise!

Don't do it without a power drill, it took me 3 hours even with one and it was a hell of an effort (though mine had seemed to melt into aball full of gunk halfway down the body of the cat!) I'd say a power drill with a spade bit or something like that! oh and be careful.

We only get what we do because of government tariffs artificially keeping the local car market comepetetive. Kinda sad you got rid of your GT-R but I can see the logic if you were after a bit more of a daily banger!

Yeah you have a point Scathing, I assume you're talking about the oil "crisis" in the late 70's? When you think about it like that, things have kind have come around full circle again - like how in the early 70's all those muscle cars ie the Hemi 'Cuda with its 26L/100km fuel consumption ruled the roads, then around 1973 when emissions requirements and in 1978(?) when the price of oil rose drastically and yeah you started to see companies like Chevrolet start to offer 4 cylinder econoboxes, then when things stabilised, power, fuel consumption and engine size all started to rise again.

That's fair, its actually in a GTS-4, running an RB25, but anyway, I wasn't sure if it was in fact possible to wire them into the ATTESSA, I've tried posting a thread on it, but have had no real luck. This is the number 1 reason I want to get rid of it. I guess if I encountered someone who had a car which had a Microtech that didn't want to be non co-operative in cold starts and traffic, and didn't seem to run obscenely rich, then I'd be a bit less critical of them. Seeing an existing thread here on the PowerFC, this has come up as a possible replacement, but due to my car appearing to have the original RB20 loom in place and the Microtech spliced in, then I was leaning towards using the RB20 ECU with a Nistune board, rather than the massive expense of a RB25 PowerFC, then having to get someone to wire it all in.

You could try reposting your topic in the Forced Induction section, thats where most of the more mechanically inclined people hang out!

lolz. Yeah I too had kinda seen the writing on the wall several months earlier, but had figured they were simply TOO BIG and diverse a company to do the whole 'chapter 11' thing, but yes I for one never figured that America would lose its love affair with tank sized utes until fuel was in critically short supply! To me it seems to be a sign that the US is in a somewhat irreversible decline, and that China is emerging more and more as the dominant world power, but that's getting a tad off topic.

GM have officially filed for bankruptcy today, apparently it's the biggest corporate collapse in US history! what do you guys think about this? I for one think that the flow on effects of this could be severe

lol yes Bunnings or any hardware shop is a good place to start. And does anyone actually bother to clean their intercoolers?

Why aren't you "going to even bother" Guilt-Toy? I was merely sharing my own experiences of Microtech ECU's, and the fact of that matter is that I've yet to see a car in person which has one that does not have cold start and overfueling issues, and pointing out that the same issues were present on two different motors and tuned by both the top and bottom end of tuners. I can't see anything I've said that's particularly stupid or irrelevant there. The question was also directed towards 3lit3_32 since he is valiantly defending an ECU which is known to be very unpopular around here, I was interested in seeing more of what he had to say in their defence.

Pretty sure it won't work, AFAIK, the NEO has a different block, but I guess if it were easy or straightforward, then lots of people would have done it already.

morse code lol

in neutral most of the time due to turbo timer, in 1st in any other car (always catches me out when i do park my car in 1st and forget to clutch it when starting hahaha)

i loled at this last page 3lit3_32, have you ever gotten a Microtech to co-operate with a GT-R or other 4wd Skyline? Mine was tuned by a big name tuner in Sydney, yet like another guy I knew with a EL straight 6 running a LT-8 vs my LT10S and tuned locally, they both don't want to cold start first go, they both need plugs changed all the time, and generally run overly rich and spit out fuel vapour as well as lots of smoke. Not to mention occasionally wanting to not rev properly when idling for a while. Thats 2 different cars with the only similarity being the brand of ECU with a local tuner and a big name city tuner doing the tunes on both, one being a N/A and the other a turbo. Seems to be more than a coincidence to me, hence I pin the blame on the ECU - I don't really want to pay say $600 to get the tune fixed up then to find in 6 months or earlier that it's returned to its original state. I figure if one of the better known names in Sydney tuning can't get the bloody thing to behave, who can! I say this because I'm also looking at the PowerFC option, though I'm leaning more towards getting a Z32, using the RB20 ECU I have and getting a Nistune board put on it.