bozodos

its almost as good as the holden logo 'shopped to read HOLDON LOL

HR-31 with VH41DE ,just LOVE the sound of the Nissan V8! and open pipe RB noise is music to my ears, I picked this one cause it sounds just like mine

so much easier taking it out with the AFM attached, as I found out after 15 minutes of stuffing around and droping a nut under the car the first time!

farki n VL BT1 bro! Seriously, what about that Z-tune with the plates Z-Tuned? I'm guessing that they will prefer something with "blingy" wheels, lots of stickers and neons etc..

just run a "chokku dori" exhaust complete with twin angled rear pipes, way cooler than a screamer

I tend to find the quality of the kebabs in those kind of places can vary wildly :S

bugatti veyron also IBTL

Damn, i've been scouring here and the net on possible workarounds since the car probably won't be getting a retune for a while

requesting more trolls ITT

I could see the point in an LS1 conversion - 5 litre = lots of work for comparitively small gains, they're not really worth bothering with anymore, unless you already happen to own one. Holden V6 though - vomit, rough, shite sounding motor, though turbo conversions are apparently widespread these days, why oh why not stick with the RB30 and turbo it?!!?? or buy a VN!?

http://www.shop.deviousmotorsports.com.au/category.php?SC=1 these guys sells some R31 specific stuff like body kits, a mate is buying tie rod end adaptors through them.

N1GTR would you mind enlightening me on how that was possible? And yeah had it been me (who wouldn't have gotten a Microtech in the first place), Id've gotten it tuned with an 02 sensor of some type. Apparently they can be tuned to be as economical without though, but I'm not sure.

N1GTR do you also have working ATTESSA with yours? Yeah I've unblocked the cat and change plugs when it starts to miss on idle, it also appears to not be running an 02 sensor which I had thought might also have been contributing to it.. my mates tell me to piss it off and get a RB20 ECU + remap or a PowerFC (rather stay MAP based due to AFMs having loads of problems). I'd rather stick with it than stuff around trying to refit something else into it.. really starting to wish I'd bought a stock or near stock car now! On the other hand, if it's "normal" for it to go rich every 4 months or so, that's not really going to work either, especially if I'm travelling upwards of 400km to go to a tuner! Apparently the ECU also needs to be sent back to Microtech for something to be adjusted for VCT to work as well.

successful troll is successful lol

Thats the point though... they are made purely to make money, without an incidental shred of artistic integrity, of course they work, they don't just make movies like these and release them to the masses, they are shown to a test audience and recut and recut and edited until they appeal to the lowest common denominator, getting people into the cinema doors regardless of the effect on the storyline/plot development, hence the more discerning types tend to take a dim view of them.

my thoughts on this thread

This thread has me thinking... a local tuner quoted me $100/h plus I had to buy the laptop connector for the Microtech (he's only previously tuned Haltech which he sells and LS1Edit). He did another guy's skyline for what turned out to be 11 hours work so $1100, for a "reasonable" tune, after hearing this I decided that going to Adelaide / Melbourne to get it retuned would be the go, would say a ballpark figure of $100/h be reasonable or would it be more? Obviously I'd have to bite the bullet and probably pay a lot, one other thing, is it true with MAP sensor based ecu's that the tune throws itself out with a change in climate? Mine was originally tuned at CRD in Sydney, and it seems excessively rich (cat blocked itself within 3 months of owning it + having to change plugs every 10000km max). Would this just be indicative of a "safe" tune or an inherent Microtech thing or perhaps something due to coming from a moderate, humid climate to a dry mediterranean one?

I remember seeing a magazine that this car was in, it sure was nice. I wish my dad had an R34 GT-R (instead of hating on Skylines because of Bathurst lol)

Nah I mean like flow terms, as in I have a KKR480 turbo at the moment, which is meant (I think?) to flow 480hp? I'd be happy with something that could give around 250-280 at the wheels, I don't really want massive power then have to start doing heaps of supporting mods to cope with it.

I've been having a continuing argument with my best mate on his engine cover, I keep telling him it looks like it belongs on a holden V6 blargh! Aren't standard NEO injectors also higher flowing than the RB25? And how many parts are common to both them and the RB26? I've heard that the block is the same, is there anything else?

22 actually, and like I said these kind of movies are either so bad they are funny, or are held up as good cinema by mindless drones. Whilst these movies are aimed at American "Tuners" who seem to be all into vinyl stickers, civics with neons and stereos which consume as much power as your average house, and are forever hitting shots of "naaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaawzzz" on the street (in these 1/4 mile races which seem to last for 16 kilometres), its not just having a few liberties taken on reality, they may as well be racing on the moon. Also, when its at the point where you can't recite a single line of dialogue from any of the movies without keeping a straight face, and that there are more image macros made from the series than you'd care to look at, you have to admit that it's not just bad, its ugly. Watch Inital D, or even the first Mad Max, then go back and watch F&F (any one) again, and if you've got two brain cells to rub together you'll see the difference between a car movie which is actually good to watch, with an interesting plot and decently developed characters, and 'blinged out', bland hollywood tripe, spoonfed to the masses by the same wankers who greenlight Adam Sandler movies.

Agreed, I was always under the impression that having the same block to the GT-R (just on strength alone), the solid lifters, and continous VCT as well as the better flowing heads stock made the NEO a far superior motor.

well I guess a turbine flowing say 600hp? I'm not very good with turbocharging terms, it's something I need to research!

The NEO also seems to be quite a bit more economical than the RB25.