bozodos

I still have trouble believing that people spend 200 dollars on wheel nuts :S

yeah the ecu's are common, I recently lent mine to a mate with a GTST cause his was stuffed, ran fine, the ATTESSA is run by a seperate computer, so the engine etc is all the same.

vl turbo maybe?

ah yeah will definitely try that next time, I almost cut the hoses in mine out of sheer frustration!

well if you're already blatantly flouting emissions laws by running an aftermarket tune, then you may as well go the whole hog guilt free IMO (mind you there is of course the possibility of being bent over for no cat, but I've not seen anyone get fined for it, just defected.)

seriously dont change it unless you HAVE to, I did mine the other week, thinking it would be even easier than the one in my Commodore, an hour and a half and a lot less skin later I finally managed to get the new one back on!

i'm going to try the martini oil then the motul just to satisfy myself to see if there is any difference compared to the castrol. Now can anyone shed any light on whether Redline Shockproof Lightweight is really any good for going into a Stagea manual box with a noisy 4th syncro, or am I better off just getting any synthetic 80w90?

when i say does it meet emissions requirements, i mean like amounts of noxious gases as well, if he can pass that with 374rwkw thats a very respectable effort!

I run 98 octane fuel only in my Skyline, its what its tuned for. I just dont see any concrete evidence about which oil is better than another apart from these used oil tests (no I cbf sifting through 48 pages to look for them either), fyi I did read this thread and some of the associated links before I selected the oil I was going to use, even Mobil 1 oil is around 80 bucks a bottle for 0w/40, and I use more than 5 litres of oil in a service (due to the bigger sump). Not all salespeople are clueless morons either. I know of 2 guys who work at different parts franchise shops here who are Skyline owners and very knowledgeable. The main reasons I ended up going with the Castrol were the fact that several mates use it in their Skylines which do get driven hard regularly and over a long period, and my parents have always used it in their RB30 Patrol which has just gone over 400 000km and still running fine, which suggests to me that it cant be as bad as some of you are making out. The one and only time I've seen oil make a performance difference was when a local performance mechanic gave me a demonstration of an LS1 running Pennzoil 5w30 on a dyno, which then had the oil immediately changed to Martini 0w40 IIRC for a 3rwkw gain. Therefore if I were to try anything else it would be that first. Btw, what is wrong with changing the oil filter at 5000km?

tbqh I'm really over my KKR480 on mine, it was dynoed at 240rwkw at 18psi for the previous owner, and though after getting a mate to stuff around with the wastegate actuator and replacing the shit manifold gasket which was on there with an OEM one, and hopefully soon changing the V-band, it doesen't feel all that fast. If i had to replace it, i'd definitely going for a HKS/Garrett ball bearing as a replacement. mind you though, im lucky that mine starts to boost at ~2500rpm, another guy I know has one on an R33 and yeah it dosen't really start to boost until 4000rpm, just seems like theres all these other little things that play up with one of these turbos!

hmm i was just thinking, with the tune mine runs (very rich!), and the fact that it blows a big puff of fuel smoke when i boot it, i think my cat may already be dead Oh and Spoolup, does your car make that power whilst still meeting all emissions requirments?

as much as that idea sounds like utter blasphemy, it would be pretty cool, I imagine it wouldn't be terribly easy to accomplish though

Aussie R31 with the suspension set up would be the go IMO, i saw one going for around that price on the R31 club forums not long ago, had all the suspension set up for drift, the other thing is that parts are cheap in general (especially engine bits for the RB30E)

Depends what you're getting them for really. From personal experience having tried Federals, Kumho's and Sava's on my Commodore, I'd go for Kumho's for handling (bearing in mind these are all cheap tyres) or Sava's for longevity. Personally wouldn't go to Tempe though. Have you tried calling up a few other tyre shops nearby?

SS_8 Gohan do you put your oil change stickers where everyone can see them or something? The only other oil in around the same viscosity which our local Autobarn stocks is Motul 8100 Xcess, and at 70 odd dollars for 4 litres is still a fair bit more. Until there's some independent test someone can show me which proves a Group 4 oil is going to make any difference to my motor longevity, economy or power rather than a Group 3, there's no reason for me to pay more for oil except for the wank factor. Ironically most of the people i know who use the expensive oils are the ones who barely drive hard enough to hit boost, seems a completely pointless waste to me. I'd rather have clean oil going in regularly than being anal about what base stock was used to make it, I've seen plenty of RB engines using Castrol Synthetic oils, whether they are in fact a true synthetic or hydrocrack, and having no problems at all. Also going off the mantra of 'you get what you pay for' its about 50 bucks for 5 litres, so being pretty middle of the road in terms of price. I also had a look in the catalogue at one of the parts shops which did in fact recommend the 5w30 oil, as well as thinking that yes logically it is close to the OEM specified viscosity, and due to the fact that when i went to service my Skyline and read through some of this thread, it was really vague and confusing, I don't appreciate when I try and help someone else out to have people whinge about it because i didnt just follow the hivemind mentality of some of the other posters in the thread, i'm just advocating what works for me in practice.

1990 R32 GTS-4 138 000km 1989 VN SS Commodore 285 000km

yeah think i'll get rid of my cat for off road use to see how much if any the difference is!

Not everyone wants to rely soley on advice taken from an internet forum about what oil to put in their cars, nor read 47 pages of often overly technical and detailed information from self appointed 'experts' about what oil to put in. Most of it comes across as TL;DR. I told them what i use, and the main reasons why I use it, mind you that is for an RB25DET. A reasonable person would first maybe research directly with a reseller or oil company on their specified oil for engine model, i'm trying to give the person some practical advice rather than saying 'oh read some hundred page pdf', or giving them a breakdown of polyester based oils vs hydrocrack! Same applies in real life, i buy Castrol EDGE from Autobarn, the salesman recommends Nulon brand oil, and other import driving mates Motul, the only common denominators I an average motorist/ameteur mechanic are going to look at are price and viscosity, and maybe whether the oil leaks, or looks suspiciously clean/overly dirty when drained. So how about you keep your trite comments to yourself, and ironically polluting the thread.

cool, ill grab your details via PM then

20 bux for the decat pipe?

hey mate are the headlights large projector style? I can't tell from the pics! Need a driver's side one.

don't mean to hijack the thread, but with a car running a Microtech, would I need to get it retuned after fitting cam gears?

i just got my rear muffler taken off at the flange and replaced with a 3" mandrel bent pipe, looks a lot better IMO and sounds a little deeper, but not a lot louder.

could always go a GTS-4 if mad keen on 4wd

If you go to your local autobarn/parts shop they should be able to look up a reccommended oil for your engine in their manufacturers book, the GTR should be listed as it was Australian delivered.