bozodos

well I got my 20x100kg out ok, then did 20x90 and 20x80. Wasn't too bad, would probably try 110 next week.

protein powders are just another form of food, I wouldn't really class them as a 'supplement'. As long as you don't buy into the marketing hype that is. a lot less calories and cheaper than eating a ton of meat, I don't think it's like any of us are having 6 or so shakes a day and not eating meat or eggs at all. I actually thought you were a powerlifting trainer exclusively Markos - I don't know why you and Tolga get so bent out of shape at different opinions on matters of fitness and health, because it's an area with a huge variance in thought, and it seems that one man's doctrine is the next man's broscience to a degree.

might be a repost, but I found this to be an interesting read... http://ausbb.com/bulk-nutrients/23192-good-bad-ugly-must-read-if-you-buy-wpi-wpc.html

got up to 120kg today with wrist straps, kind of felt like cheating! Thinking of using less weight with neutral grip to build up grip strength, as it was also becoming an issue when doing bent over rows.

cause Markos wants to turn you into a powerlifter going to attempt 20x100kg tomorrow, just to see if I can do it

fair points Wardski - but bear in mind you should be comparing the R35 to a Senator or GTS, not an SS which is worth what a third of the purchase price of a GT-R? I don't own one, but I can see why some owners don't want to use theirs as a daily driven car, which it certainly sounds like OP is finding. V8 Commodores are boring in standard form, and yes even when modified they are still 'just a Commodore', but pretensions aside, I've found that with the right setup, my current car is just as fast on public roads (faster actually) than my old R32. On the track I'm sure the difference would be glaring, but OP is talking about street driving. Insurance, parts and servicing are easier to maintain (even for a HSV as they share a lot of the same underpinnings) $500 for a minor service is still $500, but then again, you've got the money if you own an R35 in the first place. XGTRX: your own engine problems are not "known issues" - the LS engines are not perfect, but they are pretty damn good for a mass production motor.

tinfoil hat stuff right there. 98 was $1.63 here in Mildura the other day, about 3c more than average, don't really see what the big deal is, unless fuel were to become $5 a litre or something.

If you were classy you'd pass on the R35 for an AMG

Can't speak for owning a GT-R, but I had a daily driven GTS-4 for 4 years, and it was expensive and painful to own as a daily. I've never looked back since switching 2 years ago. Maybe if any of the Jap manufacturers still made cars that were either unaffordable or boring as batshit, I'd still be in one. When I say compromises, how many GT-R owners would be comfortable with using it for the shopping or long trips, leaving it parked anywhere for a decent amount of time, having any old mechanic perform work on it (even emergency repairs etc etc), the lack of rear doors, being able to get generic parts just about anywhere etc. Would you let your partner drive it? Face it, they're a specialized car, and do what they are meant to do, extremely well within those parameters. Not to mention the attention that they draw (unless that's your thing). I am curious though, how on earth does an R35 manage to be cheaper than an entry level Euro to maintain (unless their servicing costs are similarly insane).

well this is a thread about driving a HSV regularly vs an R35. I know all about the advantages / disadvantages of 243 vs L92 heads on the 4.00" bore engines, I did ask my engine builder again tonight about needing a catch can, and he said it's not necessary unless there is oil on the TB blades (which last time I checked there was not). You've clearly switched your allegiance back, but attempted to make baseless claims (especially about having to pull heads on stock motors) about an entire series of engines based on your own bad experience, and been called out on it. As for the the matter at hand, it really depends on whether you're able to put up with the compromises of having a pure sports car vs a family sedan with sporting pretensions. When it came down to boring things like maintenance costs and suitability for our roads, the Holdens (and more so HSVs) are the clear winner. I'd assume that if you own an R35, then you can comfortably afford to own multiple cars, but as a compromise car, nothing else comes close to VE/VF HSVs apart from the C63 AMGs.

Citing a random forum (and for all I know yourself) hardly gives your claims more credence. In that thread, old mate fails to acknowledge the HUGE volumes of LS cars sold in the states, also I am yet to see any threads complaining about either the 241, 243 or L92 headed engines on LS1Tech, LS1GTO, G8Board or LS1.com.au in regards to any of these claims. It's no secret that there were a lot of issues with the VT2-VX LS1s (the original 853 headed LS1) - nearly all of them had engines replaced under warranty, or have had the valley plate etc replaced with a later model one. The LS2 heads (243) are actually held up as the superior factory head on the 6.0s by many due to the fear of 'valve shrouding' with the L92s and big cams / milled heads. You do however touch on one thing, the fact that you've noted issues on motors with standard valve springs (and if tuned a potentially higher than stock limiter). The ONLY oil pressure issues I have seen or read about is early L76 engines with the VZ sump and the high displacement AFM oil pump, and even then only under certain circumstances such as loading the motor right up in low gear up a hill. Again, the only valve float issues I've seen are with stuffed standard springs + higher limiter, incorrect springs for cam / valve (as the LS3 runs hollow intake rather than a solid like the L76) or on motors with inherent issues. Naturally if someone intends on keeping their engine on the limiter for extended periods, they should probably be checking their spring pressures regularly. I will make sure to ask my builder / tuner about this next time I see him though. Given that you made some fairly ridiculous claims about every LS engine, the onus is on you to prove your claims, otherwise they are complete rubbish. Therefore I can only speculate on what you did to yours which leads me to think there was something inherently wrong with your motor, it was thrashed endlessly, or there was an issue with the maintenance on it. Tinfoil hat types try to claim that as Australia gets the Mexican built engines rather than the Canadian or US built ones (LS7 is only US built), we get the lesser quality motors, which I doubt. None of the LS specialized mechanics or tuners that I've dealt with has ever mentioned this "issue" apart from recommending I fit a catch can after I got the cam installed, or an oil cooler if I were to track it.

haha ok then, have a look on any LS forum about the issues you mention and see how much you find. fark all. The world has moved on since RB motors. Yep I have a 150k motor that looks like new internally, and ZERO valve float issues with a 6500rpm redline, and I know of and have driven 250k motors that are just as good. I can only speak on my experiences, and what I've read elsewhere, but please prove your statements about these "common" issues. Tight tolerances and over engineered, also bucking the trend of more cams = better. Maybe you just don't look after your car, I don't know, but the LS engines are the most reliable I've seen, especially at higher power levels. LS's are well known for living 500k+ with bugger all mechanical issues.

funny that my L76 did not have any issues with blowby when the heads were off? I also know of two LS1s that have had heads off recently and again, no issues like that? Maybe it's a wrong choice of oil viscosity or something like that in the cases that you are mentioning. I think it's a bold statement for you to make as saying it is an inherent design flaw. Can't say the same for my old RB with an atmo vented catch can, the intake was filth. Again, these engines will rev happily, but with the right set of springs - once again the only LS engine I have seen with valve float and excess oil in the PCV was one that had 150k+ km and its original set of springs (and was about to crap a piston lol)

I had a feeling that this was part of it too - I've been trying to squeeze the crap out of all the weights when I use them to build it up some more

gee you guys have some warped perceptions on LS motors and Commos! Get the right suspension setup for starters (and no you can NEVER compare a street registered Commodore to a freakin GT-R!!!). Secondly there is no such thing as valve float unless you're an idiot running valve springs that don't match the cam or aren't shimmed correctly. The biggest risk factor for an LS motor spinning at high RPM is the factory lifters, in which case you replace with a tie bar set when changing the cam. That said, plenty of cars running big numbers with LS7 lifters. Thirdly, most people with any modified cars fit a catch can for a more efficent PCV system. How many 300rwkw+ RB motors do not have one!? My experience of owning both imports and domestic is that unless your domestic has its arse dragging or something attention seeking, it flies under the radar. OP should have a drive of the VF HSV and see what he thinks, most of us can't comment on how an R35 drives after all

yeah I use mixed grip, feels a lot more natural haha. Tossing up on chalk or wrist wraps, prefer chalk cause I'd like to build up dat dere grip strength.

yeah fair point Markos, I've still got another 20kg to shed before I'm happy to start bulking unfortunately.

thinking I either need to get more grip strength or some straps - since I'm plateauing on 100kg! Kept finding the bar wanted to slip out of my fingers, didn't help that my gym has no f**king ventilation or fans going in winter at all, making it extremely humid in there to the point that the condensation drips from the roof.

Thanks Markos, appreciate your post. Gives me an idea of what kind of direction I want to head in with my squats. At the moment I'm usually doing 4x10 @ 120-130kg on leg day plus warmup set. How important is diet to your training style? Given that I'm currently eating to lose weight, would I be wasting my time with this sort of thing? Trying to go for strength and aesthetics, from what I've read the two don't have to be mutually exclusive.

Interesting training method - I'd thought that power lifting was all 5x5 type routines! Are you saying that your linear method is by having sets of 10 and decreasing reps while increasing weight? Or am I missing something here?

isn't powerlifting based around 1rm, short, heavy sets? depends on end results that you want I guess. I'm aiming for 1.5x bodyweight squat, 2x deadlift, and .75 OHP.

not trying to bulk, so don't want to eat all of my proteins ta

I'd been considering using chalk lately, as our gym is often farking humid during the cooler weather - I used to use gloves but seem to get a better grip on things bare handed. Got my Bulk Nutrients WPI yesterday, mixes with a lot less water than what I'm used to, but a lot more watery than my ON stuff. Tastes pretty good though, and certainly a lot cheaper than the bro science claiming, heavily marketed alternatives.

coast 2 coast = great track! I guess you'd call this deep house?

yep I was feeling knee soreness the next day after squatting until I had dat dere fish oil. Same with elbows after arm / chest workouts.